Italian Duo Send New Dolomites Route

Climbing
Photo: @emanuele_andreozzi

Earlier this month, Emanuele Anderozzi and Matteo Faletti climbed a spectacular new line on the north face of Cimon della Pala in the Pale di San Martino group of the Italian Dolomites. Elements of Life is a mixed climb graded AI5/M6.

Photo: @emanuele_andreozzi

Initially, the pair followed the ice wall climbed by Patrick Gasperini, Flavio Piccinini, and Tiziani Vanzetta in January 2020. After 100m, they branched off onto new terrain for a further 800m.

Photo: @emanuele_andreozzi

“Making this climb on such a hot and sunny day, when no one would ever think of climbing ice, is a sign of the insane disease I have for mountaineering,” Anderozzi said afterward. “We followed the weakest and most logical line up the face.”

In the Dolomites, he added, such a new route is possible only in winter, partly using ice, he said. In summer, similarly spectacular lines were opened decades ago.

“The 900m of virgin terrain surprised us…with a very beautiful and varied climb,” Anderozzi said. “Vertical ice, lots of mixed climbing, and a sharp cornice halfway up the route.”

The ice conditions for their climb were exceptional, despite the mild time of year. Even when it’s hot elsewhere, the north face gets little sun and stays well below zero.

Elements of Life. Photo: Matteo Visintainer

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About the Author

Rebecca McPhee

Rebecca is a freelance writer and science teacher based in the UK.

She is a keen traveler and has been lucky enough to backpack her way around Africa, South America, and Asia. With a background in marine biology, she is interested in everything to do with the oceans and aims to dive and open-water swim in as many seas as possible.

Her areas of expertise include open water sports, marine wildlife and adventure travel.

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Paul
Paul
17 days ago

How come the Instagram climbers don’t climb routes like these?

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