Everest Summit Wave: Day 2

8000ers Everest
Everest Pyramid. Photo: Chhang Dawa Sherpa

Over a hundred climbers are topping-out on Everest today, and around a hundred more summited yesterday, according to Alan Arnette. Yet no one has publicly shared a single picture of the summit or the climb on the upper slopes.

At the beginning of the season, Nepal’s government issued an unusual rule: teams were prohibited from sharing pictures that featured other climbing teams. This odd rule seems to have been cooked up to avoid the bad press generated by crowds and queues near the summit. Apparently, teams are complying. Most are keeping quiet about the COVID outbreak at Base Camp too. But silence will not make these problems disappear. Summit numbers speak for themselves and reports from insurance companies evacuating climbers will eventually shed more light on the severity of the COVID outbreak.

The Sherpa Sisters from Rolwaling summited Everest today (photo taken on Lobuche earlier in the season). Photo: Mingma G

The lack of information makes it difficult to keep track of all the summits, but some data is available:

Kenton Cool, who summited yesterday, has also made it to the summit of Lhotse, completing the double-header in 29 hours. (Update: later reports detailed that the team who summited Lhotse comprised Kenton Cool, Dorjee Gelgen Sherpa, Jon Gupta, Rebecca Ferry, Chhetan Dojree Sherpa, and Lakpa Wongchu Sherpa – and the time invested from summit to summmit was 29 hours. The team then made it back to Camp 2 for the night).

Mingma G has confirmed successful summits for the “three Sherpa sisters” (they are his actual sisters, increasing the number of 8,000’ers bagged by the family) as well as: Nima Jangmu Sherpa, Tshering Namgya Sherpa, Dawa Futi Sherpa. Also on the summit with his team were Pakistani Sirbaz Kahn (who recently climbed Annapurna with Mingma G), five Chinese clients and Sherpas Dawa Tenjin Sherpa, Kili (Kilu) Pemba Sherpa, Phur Galjen Sherpa, Nima Dorjee Sherpa, Furtemba Sherpa and Dawa Gyalje. Dawa Tenjin and Kilu were also part of the summit team for winter K2 in February. However, Mingma G has not reported on the result of his own no-O2 summit attempt.

Also fresh from Annapurna, Indian climber Jitendra Gaware and Pasang Sherpa summited together with Jigmat Tharchin and Phurba Sherpa.

The Himalayan Times reports that Pemba Dorjee Sherpa has summited Everest for the 21st time, accompanying Tseng Ko-Erh of Taiwan.

At least one more of Seven Summit Treks’ many teams reached the summit early today. The group included Noel Hanna, Amin Dehghan, Abdul W. Waraich, and Martha Aletta Jager. A Sherpa team supported them. The leader, Chhang Dawa, has not named them all.

Interestingly, for the majority of teams, the Sherpa-to-client ratio has dramatically increased compared to previous years. Arnette reports that the Bahraini team had 12 clients and 26 Sherpa guides.

Top-end operator Climbing The Seven Summits (whose pictures of a luxurious Base Camp complete with proper beds and rugs went viral some weeks ago) has also put all its clients on top, together with their Sherpa guides. The summit team: Michael Neal, Pem Chiri Sherpa, Steve Stevens, Lhakpa Rongdu Sherpa, Pemba Tashi Sherpa, Ang Tsering, David Morgan, Lhakpa Tsering Sherpa, Rob Su, Ashish Gurung, April Leonardo, Ryan Argenta, Tenji Sherpa, Rinji Sherpa, Nima Rita, Michael Patterson, and Pemba Gyelje Sherpa.

The weather remains excellent, and the summit teams started very early in the morning. Some may have climbed through the night. More summit news will be announced throughout the day. However, with a virtual media blackout, the most interesting stories of the season may take some time to emerge.

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About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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Aardvark
Aardvark
4 months ago

Certainly there is zero chance that a substantial amount of money from the friendly and not in the least human rights abusive Bahrainians has contributed to this years unusual rules and secrecy. It is bad enough that there is a global pandemic that predictably is ravishing Nepal and affecting all climbing teams, but even worse when one considers the power of obscene wealth when held to influence in the poorest of nations. Perhaps the climbing season can now be halted given the success of the first commercial summiteers.

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Paul
Paul
4 months ago
Reply to  Aardvark

Why do you think that the Bahrainians contributed to this year unusual rules and secrecy? They are not so secret with posting information about themselves.


+1
Aardvark
Aardvark
4 months ago
Reply to  Paul

Sheer coincidence that under the new ‘rule’ of first permits/first up they got the first permit is a great place to start. Do you think for a moment that the Prince and his party would get the same treatment as anyone else? Really? Start from there.

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Paul
Paul
4 months ago
Reply to  Aardvark

Start from there that this rule wasn’t in use, many teams that summited yesterday/today got permits very late, so it is just coincidence that the Bahrain Team was ready for summit push at the first possible occasion. There could be more teams going up yesterday and today if they will be ready.

+1
Aardvark
Aardvark
4 months ago
Reply to  Paul

There was never a chance there would be pictures of the Prince getting short-roped up while waiting for two hours at a bottle-neck with twice as many Sherpas as climbers in their group. None.

As I asked you earlier… do you think for a moment that the Prince and his party would get the same treatment as anyone else?

If you do, tell me how that works and what colour the sky is in your world. 😉

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Sarah
Sarah
4 months ago
Reply to  Aardvark

Seems pretty much to me that he did NOT get a special VIP treatment. Please read the information on how he was treated towards bringing 2000 Covid vaccines to a remote Nepal village as a gift for the people living there. He was treated badly by the officials – even accused for circumventing drug import laws. Not at all a welcoming treatment by governmental bodies.

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MuddyBoots
MuddyBoots
4 months ago
Reply to  Aardvark

The Bahraini wannabe climbers could afford to pay whatever it took to drag them to the top and back. Would be really curious to know how much O2 they were using! Guessing extra sherpas needed to haul all that O2.
Elia Saikaly was filming, so perhaps extra sherpa were needed for that equipment?

+1
Paul
Paul
4 months ago

Angela, Kenton Cool  climbed Everest at 6am and Lhotse at 11am next day so it take him 29 hours not 19. And maybe will be good to add it that he did it together with Dorjee Gyalzen Sherpa, they both climbed Everest and Lhotse.

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Montana
Montana
4 months ago

the client-to-Sherpa ratio has dramatically increased compared to previous year

perhaps you mean the Sherpa-to-client ratio?

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Jerry Kobalenko
Admin
4 months ago
Reply to  Montana

You caught us. Yes, we did.

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Avid Alan Reader
Avid Alan Reader
4 months ago

Alan Arnette reported:
The 12 member Bahrain team had 26 Sherpas in support

Can the 14 members, be changed to 12 members?
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2021/05/11/everest-2021-summit-wave-2/

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