This season, the uncrowded Gasherbrums should feature some good action. Although a group of Pakistani climbers hired by some teams is fixing ropes, the lack of big commercial teams should result in only some protected sections rather than an entirely trussed-up mountain.
Some days ago, we published Gasherbrum I: A Climber’s Guide. Before we do the same for Gasherbrum II, it helps to look at all the teams present on the two mountains and show the links to keep track of them. Beyond social media, the key information tool is their satellite trackers. SPOT and InReach devices have become essential in high-altitude expeditions, but most of all in the Karakorum. The Gasherbrums, in particular, are out of reach of the new satellite-phone antenna installed at Concordia. All communications remain via satellite-based devices.
We will also update on the only team on Nanga Parbat, further west, in Pakistan’s Himalaya. Tomorrow, we will do the same for K2 and Broad Peak.
Gasherbrum II: Up the Banana Ridge
Poland’s Beskid Expedition team of Piotr Krzyzowski and Radoslaw Wozniak are leading the way on Gasherbrum II. Yesterday, they left Camp 2 and crossed the Banana Ridge (so-called because of its curved shape) with two tents and food for four to five days. They described it as a long, tough climb. Check Piotr Krzyzowski’s location here.
A guided Czech-Slovak team also reached Camp 2 yesterday. Members include Pavel Laznicka, Michal Vesely, Filip Vitek, Martin Ksandr, Vit Dubec, Dan Born, Jozef Zajac, Petr Glettnik, Pavel Burda, and Lukas Beranek. They too commented on this difficult section. Here is their current location.
Gasherbrum II. Photo: The Altitude Team
Slightly behind, The Altitude Team left Gasherbrum II’s Camp 1 today for Camp 2. They reached it this afternoon. Check Lluis Cortadellas’ tracker. Other team members: Ferran Perez, Ignasi Sala, Albert Villarroya, and Gonzalo Fernandez.
Arman Shahpari and Milad Keshavaraz of Iran reached Camp 1, then returned to BC earlier this week, according to Fars Mountains.
Also on GII: Pakistan’s Sirbaz Khan (on his own 14×8,000’ers quest) with Ali Raza and young climbers Naila Kiani, Fatima Gul, and Sohail Sakhi. The team has not reported in since reaching Base Camp at the end of June. Sirbaz Khan’s tracker puts him still at BC.
Hidden Peak and Double-headers
Italians Mario Vielmo and Marco Confortola, together with Pakistanis Hassan Jan (summiter of all Pakistan’s 8,000’ers) and Fida Ashur are all aiming for Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak). They too last reported from Base Camp.
Italian guides Marco Confortola (left) and Mario Vielmo. Photo: Marco Confortola
The Altitude Team and the Italians originally announced that they would attempt the GI-GII double-header. In fact, it is not yet clear who might try for both these two highest Gasherbrums.
Most teams usually focus on one, but it is not unusual for expeditions to get a permit for both, just in case. Some hope that if they reach the summit, they have enough legs left for a quick push on the neighboring peak. Occasionally, individual climbers (especially 14×8,000m collectors) show up in BC and just go for whichever Gasherbrum has better summit options (aka, more fixed ropes).
In the end, however, conditions, the climbers’ strength, and the season’s time limits rarely allow Gasherbrum double-headers. This is especially true if, like this year, big guided teams are not fixing ropes from bottom to top.
Alone on Nanga Parbat
Lolo Gonzalez and Sergio Carrascoso are still fighting conditions alone on Nanga Parbat. On July 6, they broke trail and fixed rope above Camp 1, past a serac to the top of Diama Glacier. But the weather has not improved. More snowfall drove them back to Camp 1. The team’s tracker is here.
Nanga Parbat, impressive as ever. Photo: Andalucia 8000 team.
