Himalaya

Heading toward the snow dome high on the southwest ridge of Peak ca 6,400m.

The First Ascent of Phu Kang

The American Alpine Journal recently shed light on a...
Dhaulagiri I from the air, poking above clouds

Dhaulagiri: A Short History of Successes and Failures

With Herve Barmasse and David Goettler poised to attempt...
Locals at the crash site, in a gorge near Pohkara.

Plane Crashes Near Pohkara: All 72 Passengers Feared Dead

In Nepal's worst plane accident in three decades, a...
Nanda Devi massif.

The Story of Nanda Devi: Irresistible Will Meets Immovable Goddess

The state of Uttarakhand in northern India is often...
Changabang 2022.

Top 10 Expeditions of 2022: #5: Changabang – First Repeat of the Boardman-Tasker-Route

Last spring, three climbers from the New Zealand Alpine...
A vertical snow couloir on Chumbu.

Top 10 Expeditions of 2022: #7: Chumbu

A snapshot of their tent turned out to be...
Paul Ramsden on the Phantom Line.

Top 10 of 2022: #9: Jugal Spire

There is a good reason why Paul Ramsden and...
Summit selfie of several climbers

Unclimbed Himalayan Peaks For Clients: A New Sales Strategy?

Some outfitters are trying to overcome the negative perception...
The line along the south face on Chekigo peak, climbed in November 2022 by a Japanese team.

A Bold Attempt on Chekigo Peak

Last month, from November 5-7, an experienced Japanese party...
A climber on a snow slope, surrounded by brown and white peaks

Canadians Bag New Route on Rolwaling’s Khang Karpo

Maarten van Haeren and Ethan Berman wanted something special...
Namcha Barwa on a blue-bird day.

Gyala Peri and Namcha Barwa: Two Hard 7,000’ers Climbed Only Once

At the eastern end of the Himalaya lies a...
sato pyramide first ascent

Italians Bag First Ascent of Sato Pyramide

When Stefano Ragazzo and Silvia Loreggian first discovered the...
portrait of Kazuya Hiraide

Interview with Kazuya Hiraide: Seeking Blank Spaces on a Map

Kazuya Hiraide has won three Piolets d'Or, yet still...
Grey Couloir on Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam’s Fall Season Ends With a Close Call

The fall season on Ama Dablam ended a couple...
Ama Dablam Base Camp at night

Ama Dablam Stays Open Until 2023

Ama Dablam hosts more climbers each season, leading to...
small climber on snowy terrain

Denis Urubko Calls Off Rakhiot Peak

Rakhiot Peak, one of the points along the Nanga...
Sanu Sherpa stands with an ice axe and Nepal flag on his hands, looking to the mountains in the background.

Local Climbers Open a New Route on Nepal’s Ganchempo

It is a new idea, and at the same...
climber proceeds up a fixed rope on a snow ramp.

Russians Summit Annapurna IV

News has finally come from Annapurna IV. Two climbers...
View of Barnaj II. The trio climbed the rightmost of the three grouped pointed peaks.

New Route on Barnaj II in India’s Kishtwar Himal

There were two interesting recent expeditions to the Himalaya...
Ama Dablam 6,812m, Himalaya, Nepal. Photo: Ishita Dharnidharka

French Climber Dies on Ama Dablam

After the death of Mingma Wangdi Sherpa a few...
A shot from above of a vertical wall of ice and a climber ascending.

Pomlaca: A First Ascent in the Crowded Khumbu

Climbing skills go beyond the obvious. There is technique...
climbers progress on a fixed rope, up a snow ramp.

Annapurna IV: Russians Ready for Summit Push

The large Russian team on Annapurna IV is preparing...
A climber on vertical ice covering a rocky face, leading the pitch.

More Details from the First Ascent of Chumbu

There were cheers and toasts in Kathmandu yesterday. Zdenek...
Chumbu, a few hundred meters form Tibet.

Nepal, UPDATED: Action on Annapurna IV, Chumbu, and Pungi

A 14-man Russian team is currently climbing Annapurna IV...

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