The summit (or foresummit?) that Sherpa rope fixers reached last night has put many Manaslu teams on the go. And they’re going fast.
As a commenter noted yesterday, an 8,000m summit once marked the final achievement after a long expedition. Now, it’s just the starting gun on highly commercialized mountains.
The unusual summit time of 9:45 pm also marks the changing times. Some years ago, teams launched their final summit pushes with a deadline. When it passed, they turned back for safety reasons. Continuing into the night is only possible with vast supplies of oxygen and high flow rates.
Even more surprising: Successful climbers Sona Sherpa, Ngima Tashi Sherpa, Tenging Gyaljen Sherpa, Fura Tshering Sherpa, Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, and Tashi Sherpa were all back in Base Camp by 4 am local time today.
This shows not only their remarkable strength but their approach: Either they need to leave room for clients in the high camps and/or they have to get back down in order to go up again as guides.
Meanwhile, a wave of climbers has now left BC, intending to summit on Monday. Seven Summit Treks says that over 40 people are between Camp 1 and Camp 3, with 200 more making their final preparations in Base Camp.
Elite Exped and Climbing the Seven Summits, for example, will reach Camp 1 tonight, skip Camp 2, and make Camp 3 tomorrow. “Then on toward the summit,” they say. 8K Expeditions hope to top out on Tuesday.
Forecasts show mixed weather over the next few days, with weakening winds and improved conditions by Sunday evening through Tuesday.
When and how much oxygen?
Also remarkable compared to expeditions of 10 or 20 years ago is how quickly climbers acclimatize and climb up and down the mountain. The massive use of supplementary oxygen is largely responsible. We asked guide Jon Gupta about this before he left for the summit with client Lhakpa Wongchu and another Sherpa climber. They aim to summit on Monday. You can track their progress here.