35 Days on a Frozen Wall, Alone: Marek Raganowicz Solos New Route on Baffin Island

Marek Raganowicz of Poland has soloed a new route on the North Face of Polar Sun Arm in Sam Ford Fiord on Baffin Island in the Canadian Arctic. He was 35 days alone on the wall. Raganowicz named the route MikroKozmik Variations (A4+, M5).

Solo means alone. Photo: Marek Raganowicz

 

Raganowicz’s route on Polar Sun Arm. He then continued to the top of Polar Sun Spire, following a line that he and a partner opened in 2012. Photo: Jerry Kobalenko

 

Biggest cliffs in the world?

Polar Sun Arm is a wall separated from the better-known Polar Sun Spire, on the mountainous east coast of Baffin Island. The cliffs in Sam Ford Fiord rise 1600-1700m directly from the frozen ocean. Depending on your definition of “cliff”, they may be the biggest cliffs in the world. Their only possible competitors are the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat and Gyala Peri.

Raganowicz opened 15 new pitches with a difficulty of A4+. He continued for another 11 pitches on the Superbalance line that he and Marcin Tomaszewski opened on Polar Sun Spire in 2012. In all, he did a 26-pitch variation route, totally alone.

Alone on the frozen wall. Photo: Marek Raganowicz

 

Photo: Marek Raganowicz

 

Among his difficult solos, in 2016, Raganowicz made the first repetition of the dangerous Plastic Surgery Disaster (A5) route on El Capitan, again alone. One year later, Raganowicz made the first solitary winter ascent of Troll Wall in Norway, during a climb that took 16 days.

Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan in 2016. Photo: Marek Raganowicz

Raganowicz during his solo climb on the Troll Wall in Norway. Photo: Marek Raganowicz

 

Reportedly very thin but happy with his success, he recently caught a lift back to the town of Clyde River on a snowmobile driven by an Inuit guide.

Raganowicz on Polar Sun Arm. Photo: Marek Raganowicz

 

During those lonely weeks on the wall, he says he learned much about the limits of his abilities. Raganowicz would agree with the famous Japanese soloist Buntaro Kato, who wrote in his Manifesto of a Solo Mountaineer: “If mountaineering is about gaining knowledge and therefore comfort from Nature, then surely the greatest knowledge and the greatest degree of comfort is gained from solo mountaineering.”

Sunrise at 2 am, from Polar Sun Arm. Photo: Marek Raganowicz

Kris Annapurna is the writer of Explorersweb.

Kris has been writing about history and tales in alpinism, news, mountaineering, updates of news during the climbing seasons in Himalaya, Karakorum, etc., for the last 9 month for Explorersweb. Prior to that, Kris spent time at/worked at Real State agent, interpreter and sworn translator in criminal law.

Based in Madrid, Spain, and trips to Hungary (homeland).

Subscribe
Notify of
guest
4 Comments
Oldest
Newest Most Voted
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
Kevin Andresen
Kevin Andresen
1 month ago

Wow!

I love reading this site.

B.G
B.G
1 month ago

Marek has been one of the most interesting climbers for years now. The ascents he does will help define this era. Great stuff.

M. Funch
M. Funch
1 month ago

Great, inspiring article, thanks; impressive huge effort by Raganowitz.

Sam Frank
Sam Frank
9 days ago

Well done Marek, an unbelievable achievement, was offshore with him last Christmas when he was talking about the plans to do this. He is a true gentleman, after now seeing this feat he totally underplayed his challenge ahead, totally smashed it with no bravado, boasting or bragging. He is in top 0.1% of the 1%, a mindset and ability that is unimaginable even for the people working beside him. Its people like Marek that give me faith in humanity and the limits a human can push to, withstand and overcome.