8,000m Roundup: Everest, Dhaulagiri, Kangchenjunga

After the first trickle of Everest summits over the weekend, the massive wave of almost 500 clients may begin tomorrow. According to Nga Tenji Sherpa of Pioneer Adventure, 160 climbers went from Camp 3 to Camp 4 today. From here, they are ready to launch their summit pushes tonight.

Others are close behind. The Furtenbach Adventures team arrived in Camp 3 today. The biggest numbers, however, are currently in Camp 2 or on the way there. Groups are trying to spread out during this long weather window in order to avoid jams. Climbing The Seven Summits, for instance, hopes to reach the top on May 20.


Carlos Soria, Sito Carcavilla, and Mikel Sherpa are in Camp 2 on Dhaulagiri. In the next few days, they will decide whether to advance from there. They may be waiting for the rope fixers. Oswald Pereira, who summited on Sunday with Bartek Ziemski (who also skied down the mountain) told ExplorersWeb that the fixed ropes currently end at Camp 3.

Shillouettes of three climbers proceed on fresh snow. Clouds in background and a big crevasse in front.

Climbers on Dhaulagiri. Photo: Carlos Soria/Facebook

Ropes airlifted on Kangchenjunga

On Kangchenjunga, the ropes are in place up to 7,400m. The climbers are waiting for the Sherpas to fix to the summit. To speed up things, a helicopter flew 200m of rope to Camp 2. The Sherpa team should reach Camp 3 tomorrow and the summit on Wednesday. In earlier times, Kangchenjunga’s upper sections were climbed in two or three-person teams, trad style.

A climber holds a rope at the side of a crevasse, on a snowy plateau surrounded by jagged peaks.

Crevasse crossing on Kangchenjunga. Photo: Domi Trastoy


Domi Trastoy noted that Camp 4 is lower than usual this year, which will result in a very long summit day. The Andorran team also said that according to their forecasts, the weather window will close by July 20. He and his team are currently in Camp 2 and ready to climb right after the rope fixers.

Pumori summits

IFMGA guide Prakash Sherpa and Christiaan Pieter de Jong of the Netherlands summited Pumori (7,161m) on May 13. The two of them roped up and broke trail without fixed ropes from Camp 2 to the summit.

Theirs is the first Pumori summit of the season after dangerous conditions pushed back the Asian Trekking and Pioneer teams from Camp 2.

Pumori summit picture, with one of the climbers sitting down and other driking from an aluminium bottle. Everest/Lhotse/Nuptsee in background.

The summit of Pumori, with Everest/Lhotse/Nuptse in the background. Photo: Prakash Sherpa

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.