What We Know About the Secret Missions of Alpinists in Nepal

Beyond the 8,000m crowds, many silent valleys in Nepal are drawing alpinists aiming for new routes or first ascents. Here are some of the confirmed teams and what (little) we know about their goals, which they often keep secret.

Bielecki, Berg, Barmasse

Adam Bielecki of Poland is teaming up again with Felix Berg of Germany, his climbing partner on Annapurna’s South West Face and Gasherbrum II’s West Face. This time, they have added Herve Barmasse of Italy to the team for a new expedition to Nepal’s Rolwaling Valley.

The three will try to open a new route on Numbur Peak, also known as Numburchuli. This spiky mountain’s altitude varies between 6,957m and 6,959m, depending on the source. A Japanese-Nepalese team first climbed it in 1963 via the south face.

“In 1981, there was also a French expedition that reached the summit via the southwest ridge,” Bielecki noted.

He didn’t say if his team has a specific line in mind. The climbers are looking forward to “exploration and ambitious climbing in less accessible and less popular places,” Bielecki said.

Numbur peaak in the distance.

Numbur Peak. Photo: Wikipedia

Fowler and Saunders

Mick Fowler, 69, and Victor Saunders, 74, of the UK are somewhere in Nepal, tackling a new route on one of the country’s 6,000’ers and demonstrating once again their enduring thirst for adventure.

Close shot of Fowler and Saunders on a summit in a cloudy day.

Mick Fowler, left, and Victor Saunders on the summit of the Karakoram’s Yawash Sar last year. Photo: Berghaus

 

Fowler and Saunders first climbed together back in the 1980s, when they achieved the first ascent of the Golden Pillar of Spantik in Pakistan. After an extended break, they reunited in 2016 for a first ascent of the north face of Sersank in the Himalaya. They had more expeditions planned until Fowler’s cancer diagnosis delayed them.

Following successful treatment, Fowler returned to fitness and expeditions and continues to climb in the greater ranges while using a colostomy bag and adapted outdoor gear. Last year, the pair achieved the first ascent of Yawash Sar in the Karakoram.

“Over the last few years, we have discovered that we enjoy each other’s company and we make a pretty good climbing team, too,” Fowler told sponsor Berghaus.

Schupbach, Siegrist, Sala

Climbers joking at an airport departures lounge.

Left to right, Sala, Schupbach, and Siegrist at the airport before flying to Nepal. Photo: Silvan Schupbach/Instagram

 

Silvan Schupbach, Stefan Siegrist, and Philippo Sala of Switzerland shared their departure for Nepal on social media, but not their goal. Sala, 22, is the youngest of the team but not a mountain rookie. Two weeks ago, he and Schupbach climbed what they think could be a new mixed route in the Bernese Oberland.

Himalaya Camp

The young members of the Himalaya Camp 2025 expedition and their leader, Yasuhiro Hanatani, are already in Nepal. Yesterday, they obtained a permit for unclimbed 6,111m Bijora Hiunchuli in Western Nepal.

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.