Local climbers have begun to enjoy winter in the Scottish Highlands. Little waterfall ice has formed yet, but cold mixes with high humidity from the ocean has formed a thin layer of hoarfrost, which covers the granite. Many climbers dread such conditions; but to Scottish climbers, it’s part of the fun.
Greg Boswell, one of the most prolific route setters in the area, has already opened three new routes in a week, with different climbing partners.
Finally recovered from ankle surgery, Boswell drove north last week with Hamish Frost and started with Shadow Buttress at Lochnagar in the Grampians.
“We climbed [directly] into ‘The Hooded Groove,’” he said. “After finishing its two main pitches, we went up to the nose of the upper buttress on a parallel line left of ‘Shadow Buttress Direct.’ ”
A storm caught the pair as they approached the summit. “[It] added to the adventure,” said Boswell, “making topping out and getting back down again feel a tad arduous.”
More Shadow Buttress
A few days later, Boswell returned to Shadow Buttress on an almost clear day with Dave Cowan.
“We did a new line up the left side of the obvious steep wall (where ‘Bring Da Ruckus’ goes through), to finish on the immaculate headwall that hangs above,” Boswell wrote.
He had been planning that line for years, and the experience “didn’t disappoint,” he admitted.
On November 26, Boswell put up a third new route on the same crag, this time with Andy Inglis.
“Plan A was something completely different, but the objective [was] buried under a thick layer of hoar, but more vexingly, a film of verglass,” Boswell explained.
So in the end, they decided to head back to Shadow Buttress.
“We opened a new line on the right side…and it was great to see Andy put in a smooth lead on the first pitch of his season opener.”
It might be hard to keep that pace throughout Scotland’s long climbing season, which sometimes lasts until April.
Here, you can read more about Scottish ice climbing with Piolet d’Or winner Tim Miller.
