For serial summiters like Kristin Harila, acclimatization rotations are a thing of the past. She just flew to Base Camp and climbed Gasherbrum II. Recently arrived in the Karakoram and climbing without O2, Horia Colibasanu has summited Broad Peak, his 10th 8,000’er.
Broad Peak success
Horia Colibasanu, left, and a teammate in Camp 3 yesterday. Photo: Horia Colibasanu/Facebook
On Broad Peak, teams started for the top yesterday. Horia Colibasanu, with some other independent climbers, rested at Camp 3 (7,000m) for a day, then headed for the summit last night. We only know that he summited but have no further details about conditions on the long summit ridge.
Before the current push, there were no ropes beyond the Gasherbrum Col. Not knowing whether yesterday’s teams would install any ropes, Colibasanu and his partners carried their own rope.
Seven Summit Treks put seven people on top of Broad Peak as well, including 14×8,000’er lister Allie Pepper of Australia.
Camp 3 on Broad Peak two days ago. Photo: Horia Colibasanu
Urubko and Cardell break trail on GI
Meanwhile, on Gasherbrum I, Denis Urubko and Pipi Cardell have opened the trail to Camp 2. They plan to acclimatize on the normal route as far as Camp 3. Then they will descend and launch their alpine-style attempt on a new route on the 8,035m peak.
Pipi Cardell breaks trail on Gasherbrum I. Photo: Denis Urubko
Kristin Harila and friends bag GII
Kristin Harila of Norway and Tenjen “Lama” Sherpa of Nepal are getting closer to summiting all 14 8,000’ers in three months. They reached the top of Gasherbrum II today at 7:45 am, together with Mingtemba Sherpa.
There are no details yet about conditions or whether they all used supplementary oxygen on the 8,034m peak. Harila and the Seven Summit Treks’ sherpas gained some rest time in town by skipping the long Baltoro trek and helicoptering to Base Camp. Members of the EliteExped group, including Nirmal Purja and Qatari Princess Asma Al Thani, also used the airlift.
A large number of climbers should follow Harila. Teams from Nanga Parbat reached Gasherbrum Base Camp yesterday, already acclimatized from the previous peak. Those using supplementary oxygen (even on lower 8,000’ers like the Gasherbrums) can climb the peaks in one go, sipping oxygen as they go.
K2 will have to wait
On K2, summit pushes will have to wait until camps and ropes are set. Taking advantage of improving weather, most teams are on their way to Camp 2 for a first acclimatization round. Those on oxygen or already acclimatized are going even further. Ropes are fixed to Camp 3.
Members of the Furtenbach Adventure team acclimatized at home using hypoxic tents and were on their way to Camp 2 on K2 yesterday.
