First Manaslu Summits of the Season

As expected, things have moved fast on Manaslu. The Sherpa team coordinated by Seven Summit Treks reached the summit today at 3:30 pm, while most climbers are still on their first rotation.

Summiters were Namgel Dorjee Tamang, Ngima Tashi Sherpa, Pemba Tashi Sherpa, Dawa Sherpa, Pam Dorjee Sherpa, and Sirjangbu Sherpa.

The way is open

The route is now open and more summits will follow soon, especially from those relying on supplementary oxygen and hypoxic training at home. While not perfect, conditions are acceptable. There is light snow, turning to fog and then rain in Base Camp, and moderate winds. The forecast for the summit can be viewed below.

Weather chart for the next 7 days on Manaslu

Multimodel forecast for Manaslu at summit altitude. Photo: Meteoexploration.com

 

Other teams are on their rotations to Camp 1 and Camp 2. Some have just arrived on the mountain.

Climbers between Camp 1 and Camp 2 on Manaslu in foggy weather.

Climbers between Camp 1 and Camp 2 on Manaslu in foggy weather. Photo: Fotis Theocharis

Efficiency rules

In a world of commercial expeditions and crowded mountains, quickly fixing the route means efficiency and productivity. Those already prepared can climb to the summit immediately, leaving room for other climbers that reach Base Camp later.

It is also convenient for sherpa guides, who can finish quickly and move to other peaks or repeat the ascent with a different client. Finally, short expeditions make for greater profits for operators. They can fulfill their commitments to their clients while minimizing catering and personnel costs.

Last but not least, less crowding and well-distributed summit pushes result in safer climbs, with no traffic jams at exposed spots or overcrowded ropes.

A partial image of Manaslu Base Camp.

A partial image of Manaslu Base Camp. Photo: Arnold Coster

 

Everything went smoothly last year, ending with 468 climbers on top, a record summit rate, and, most importantly, no casualties. According to the latest update from Nepal’s Department of Tourism, this year there are 28 teams with a climbing permit for Manaslu, with 308 foreign climbers.

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.