As the late-summer climbing season reaches its peak, Manaslu is hosting a record number of climbers. We may get the first crowds this week as climbers rotate to Camp 3 in bad weather. Meanwhile, nearly 20 commercial climbers are heading to Dhaulagiri, which is much less crowded.
Nearly three weeks after the catastrophic flooding of the Bhotekosi River killed thousands, recovery work continues, and not everything is bad news. According to Nepal’s Department of Tourism, 310 foreign tourists have been rescued, and 13 others have been located alive after being unaccounted for since the flood. Most of these were doing the Mount Kailash pilgrimage and were in remote areas when the floods hit Rasuwa village and the areas around the Tibetan border.
However, 607 people of 34 different nationalities are still missing, including 189 from India, 65 from the U.S., 55 from Malaysia, 54 from Ukraine, 37 from China, 33 from Australia, 33 from Latvia, 32 from the UK, and 30 from Canada. The updated lists are available here.
Tourists helped by the Nepalese army. Photo: The Tourism Times
Nepal authorities and outfitters are encouraging potential visitors to keep their travel plans. They insist that the mountain trails, accommodations, and base camps are open and welcoming guests.
Manaslu record increases
The number of Manaslu climbers is increasing daily. An updated tally from Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism yesterday shows a total of 466 permits granted to foreigners, an all-time record. Pemba Sherpa of 8K Expeditions, also a member of the Nepal Tourism Board, told The Tourism Times that Manaslu Base Camp will host over 1,000 people this season, which is almost Everest-scale.
Most climbers on the mountain held their puja ceremonies — offerings to ask the gods for safe passage on the mountain — last weekend. Currently, they are rotating to Camps 2 and 3, while the rope-fixing team waits for more stable conditions to lay the ropes to the summit. This morning, the weather was still rainy and foggy at Base Camp altitude (4,800m).
Among those enduring the rain was Italian Simone Moro, who had just arrived in Base Camp today. While not confirmed, Moro could be preparing for a winter attempt on Manaslu in light style, which he has tried several times before.
Last year, he suffered a serious cardiac problem while he was acclimatizing on Mera Peak before attempting Manaslu. It put a dramatic end to the expedition before it started. However, Moro recovered well and climbed Denali in June, with a new attempt on winter Manaslu in mind.
Simone Moro at Manaslu Base Camp today. Photo: Simone Moro/Instagram
Crevasse scare
Yesterday, a climber fell into a crevasse below Camp 1. That section is technically easy, but it is on a glacier, so it is not completely harmless. In addition, the lower part of the mountain is extremely slippery due to the recent rain.
Luckily, the climber was clipped to a rope and just hung from it in the crevasse, so he was quickly rescued, unharmed. See the video below by Phuri Sherpa of EliteExped.
EliteExped, co-founded by the late Nirmal Purja — who perished in an avalanche on Broad Peak — remains active on Nepal’s 8,000’ers, led by Tejan Gurung and company co-founder Mingma David Sherpa.
Dhaulagiri
Meanwhile, two large teams, totaling 19 foreign members, are on their way to Dhaulagiri (8,167m). Others may follow soon. We have confirmation of a group from Altipro Adventures, led by Saila Mingma, and a large team from 14 Peaks Expedition, headed by Makalu Lakpa.
So far, there are no commercial expeditions on the other 8,000’ers. Two Russian climbers are attempting Makalu, but in alpine style. They are alone on the mountain.
Ama Dablam, another favorite peak of the fall season, will start hosting big teams in October.
