A First Ascent in Patagonia

Four Chilean climbers have made the first ascent of the imposing north face of Mount Huinay in Patagonia. Nicolas Gutiérrez, Pancho Herrera, Sebastián Rojas, and Hernán Rodríguez found a direct route up the 1,300m face and took six days and 25 pitches to top out.

The 1,300m north face. Photo: Pancho Herrera


Mount Huinay is situated in a remote stretch of the Chilean Los Lagos mountains. To avoid a week of hiking with heavy gear, the team hired a helicopter to their Base Camp.

On arrival, they were treated to consistent rain. Once the infamous Patagonia weather relented, the climb was relatively straightforward. Their route, named Füta Chao (“Great Father” in the local Mapuche language), has been graded 5.12, A2+.

The four climbers on the summit of Mount Huinay. Photo: Pancho Herrera