A First Ascent in Patagonia

Four Chilean climbers have made the first ascent of the imposing north face of Mount Huinay in Patagonia. Nicolas Gutiérrez, Pancho Herrera, Sebastián Rojas, and Hernán Rodríguez found a direct route up the 1,300m face and took six days and 25 pitches to top out.

The 1,300m north face. Photo: Pancho Herrera


Mount Huinay is situated in a remote stretch of the Chilean Los Lagos mountains. To avoid a week of hiking with heavy gear, the team hired a helicopter to their Base Camp.

On arrival, they were treated to consistent rain. Once the infamous Patagonia weather relented, the climb was relatively straightforward. Their route, named Füta Chao (“Great Father” in the local Mapuche language), has been graded 5.12, A2+.

The four climbers on the summit of Mount Huinay. Photo: Pancho Herrera

Martin Walsh is a writer and editor for ExplorersWeb.

Martin has been writing about adventure travel and exploration for over five years.

Martin spent most of the last 15 years backpacking the world on a shoestring budget. Whether it was hitchhiking through Syria, getting strangled in Kyrgyzstan, touring Cambodia’s medical facilities with an exceedingly painful giant venomous centipede bite, chewing khat in Ethiopia, or narrowly avoiding various toilet-related accidents in rural China, so far, Martin has just about survived his decision making.

Based in Da Lat, Vietnam, Martin can be found out in the jungle trying to avoid leeches while chasing monkeys.

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Eddy De Wilde
Eddy De Wilde
1 year ago

Goes to show that there are still big walls to be found and climbed. Good to see Chileans taking the prize in their own country. Thanks for reporting Martin (the man with the smorgasbord resume)