Japanese Trio to Attempt First Ascent of Anidesh Chuli, near Kangchenjunga

A Japanese team led by Piolet d’Or winner Kazuaki Amano is attempting the first climb of Anidesh Chuli, a nearly 7,000m peak in the Kangchenjunga area, in eastern Nepal.

The climbers reached their 4,750m base camp on Sept. 30. Since then, they have been acclimatizing to 5,800m and are now ready to launch a summit push when conditions permit.

A map showing the location of the Japanese team's base camp, north of Jannu and northwest of Kangchenjunga.

A map showing the location of the Japanese team’s base camp, north of Jannu and northwest of Kangchenjunga. Photo: Meiji Un/Alpine Club

 

The White Wave

Anidesh Chuli, also known as the White Wave, is a little-known peak whose altitude differs, depending on the source. The Japanese describe it as 6,960m but other sources put it at 6,808m. A New Zealand team attempted the east ridge in 2013, but aborted their expedition after a fall injured one of them.

The expedition is supported by Meiji University, currently celebrating the centenary of its mountaineering club. The climbing team includes Kotaro Miyazu, Mashu Kawasaki, Suzuna Kawashima, and Nobumi Nakazawa. However, Kawashima and Nakazawa reportedly left the team some days ago.

Climbers during the approach trek through off-the-beaten-track areas in Nepal.

Climbers during the approach trek through off-the-beaten-track areas in Nepal. Photo: Meiji Un, Alpine Club

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.