On Annapurna, the weather seems to be settling and a potential summit push could begin this weekend. Meanwhile, Everest outfitters prepare for a big season with an influx of Chinese clients, and rumors of Kilian Jornet’s return to Everest-Lhoste swirl, much to Jornet’s dismay.
Jornet remains flexible
Outfitter Seven Summit Treks has confirmed the recent rumors that Kilian Jornet will return to Nepal. “He aims to climb Everest and Lhotse without supplemental oxygen,” Tashi Lakpa Sherpa told The Himalayan Times.
We asked Jornet for details but he was not keen to share much. “I have permits for several peaks but I will only decide on the spot, depending on conditions,” he explained. “I also believe it is better to speak about our activities after we’re done.”
Kilian Jornet skiing last month. Photo: Kilian Jornet
Jornet will land in Nepal in great shape. Last week, he linked the seven main summits of Norway’s Romsdal range: Juratind, Store Vengetind, Kvandalstind, Romsdalshorn, Store Trolltind, Kongen, and Dronninga. His route combined sections on skis and alpine climbing.
You can check out some of his linkup in the video below:
Chinese influx boosts Everest business
Everest companies view the upcoming season with growing optimism, thanks largely to a wave of Chinese clients. Chinese nationals, finally free to travel without COVID-based restrictions, are flocking to the Nepali side of Everest.
This rush of tourists could feature many less experienced climbers. Unlike in China, Nepal does not require Everest climbers to have previously climbed an 8,000’er.
File image of climbers lining up on the way to Everest’s summit. Photo: Kami Rita Sherpa
According to the Kathmandu Post, the final number of permits might break previous records, potentially reaching 500. The previous record was in 2021 when COVID lockdowns lifted around the world and 409 foreign climbers received an Everest permit. Last year’s total was 325.
The exact numbers will become clearer as the season begins. The Icefall Doctors have finished setting up the route to Camp 2, and the rope-fixing team is already at work under the leadership of Dawa Gyalje Sherpa of Imagine Nepal. He is taking over that task from Kami Rita Sherpa. Instead, Kami Rita will lead a Seven Summit Treks team and possibly summit Everest for the 27th time!
Annapurna summit push: April 15?
“As the weather has cleared, we are resuming climbing on Annapurna,” Sajid Sadpara of Pakistan reports. “If everything goes well…we will push further than Camp 3 and possibly launch our first summit push.”
Imagine Nepal’s Mingma G pointed to April 15 as a possible summit date.
Mingma G on Annapurna. Photo: Imagine Nepal
Shishapangma team in Base Camp
The team of Viridiana Alvarez, Kristin Harila, Sophie Lavaud, and the Sherpas of Climbalaya arrived at Shishapangma’s Base Camp in China (reachable by car) yesterday. The “regular” base camp is 18km away and some 700m higher. Alvarez’s tracker shows that the team will climb the normal route, up the north side of the mountain.
You can check out the details of their route in our Shishapangma climbers’ guide.
Shishapangma’s Base Camp on the barren Tibetan plateau. Photo: Edurne Pasaban
