Annapurna Summits Despite Tough Conditions

Despite unfavorable weather, a group of rope-fixing guides and climbers summited Annapurna today. The Imagine Nepal-led team included guides Kili Pemba Sherpa, Tamting Sherpa, Phur Galjen Sherpa, Dawa Sherpa, Tshering Samduk Sherpa, Suman Gurung, and Ngima Nuru Sherpa, as well as their clients Wang Zhong of China, Naoki Ishikawa of Japan, Sashko Kedev of Macedonia, Maria Alexandra Danila of Romania, and Nadia Lisa Khoso of the UK. They reached the summit at 11:15 am local time.

This marks the first successful ascent of an 8,000-meter peak this spring.

Sherpa in helmet and full high altitude gear about to leave base camp.

Pasang Norbu Sherpa. Photo: Seven Summit Treks

 

Seven Summit Treks confirmed that Pasang Norbu Sherpa (who summited winter Manaslu some months ago) also topped out. In addition, Sajid Sadpara, climbing fast and without supplementary oxygen was on the summit at 12:30 pm local time, according to his tracker. This is his fourth 8,000’er, all of them climbed without oxygen.

Sajid takes a selfie inside a yellow tent, dressed in high altitude down jacket.

Sajid Sadpara in a high camp on Annapurna. Photo: Sajid Sadpara

 

The three Pakistani climbers had been staying together in Base Camp until now. However, Naila Kiani and Shehroze Kashif, who are climbing with supplementary oxygen, have chosen a different schedule than Sadpara. They have passed the hanging seracs above Camp 2 and plan to take a break at Camp 3, along with most of the Seven Summit Treks team. Their plan for reaching the summit depends on weather and conditions.

In the end, Naila Kiani (and likely other members of the Seven Summit Treks team) decided to set off toward the summit tonight from Camp 3. They are on O2.

Naila Kiani's location on a Google earth Annapurna map, showing she is right at mid height of the mountain.

Naila Kiani’s location today at 12:45pm local time.

 

The unpredictable weather on the mountain have led to divergent strategies among climbing teams. While a few climbers were able to reach the summit early in the day, the majority are currently stationed at various higher camps. One group is currently at Camp 4, where they are busy preparing their summit push tonight. The team includes Jonathan Lamy, whose location can be tracked here.

The summiters are currently on their way down.

However, the Polish pair of Bartek Ziemski and Oswald Pereira are not among those attempting the summit today. The duo faced unforeseen issues during their climb, but they have not yet disclosed any details.

Mingma G on Everest

Jill Wheatley, who had to leave the mountain for a week due to a severe case of pneumonia, is now above Camp 4 and making her way towards the summit with Pemba Chiri Sherpa. While all members of the Imagine Nepal team are on the mountain, head guide Mingma G left Annapurna after hearing about the accident on Everest’s Khumbu Icefall, that claimed the lives of three of his staff.

Mingma G initially went to participate in the rescue operations, hoping to find the missing Sherpas. However, a large serac had fallen on them, making it impossible to retrieve their bodies. “Life is uncertain,” said the experienced IFMGA guide, “but as long as I am alive, I will take care of their families.”

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.