Are Some Kangchenjunga Climbers Starting From Camp 2?

Update: Mingma G has managed to clarify this situation for ExplorersWeb. The only confirmed helicopter flight that took place was a rescue during the first summit push. See Mingma G’s report here.

 

The main goal of Asma Al Thani is Everest, but in the last few days, the Qatari princess has flown back and forth between mountains twice to climb Kangchenjunga as well. After a failed first attempt, she summited Kangchenjunga two days ago with Nirmal Purja, Lakpa Dendi, Tenji Sherpa, and Mingma Tenzi Sherpa.

In a brief report, Al Thani recalled a long summit night from Camp 4, followed by a full day, then another night before it ended. The whole climb, she remarked, took only two days. She wrote that the team started their push “from Camp 2”. That detail is odd.

On the first summit push last week, led by Mingma G, sources in Kangchenjunga BC reported that after the failed attempt, the Elite Exped team flew by helicopter straight from C2 back to Everest.

It was unclear if they had also been airlifted to Camp 2, as Al Thani’s post implies, and if so, whether they followed the same strategy this time. This is a detail that needs to be cleared up, since an ascent of an 8,000’er must start from Base Camp or Advanced Base Camp, if that is where the teams mostly stay.

Aerial shortcuts to and from the summit have become a source of controversy on Everest in recent years. Some teams have been suspected of catching a ride to the top of the Khumbu Icefall. Helicopter flights are only allowed for rescues, or recently, to carry gear for the rope-fixing teams.

Now rumors point to a similar shortcut occurring on Kangchenjunga, not because of any emergency but to save time for clients attempting multiple peaks.

Update: In a later report posted several hours after Al Thani’s, Nirmal Purja claims they started from BC. Explorersweb is asking several sources at Kangchenjunga BC and elsewhere in Nepal for clarification.

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!


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Apy
Apy
16 days ago

Hi Angela,
Nims’ IG is clearer : “we did the summit push in 2 days… We smashed it from BC to C2 and then C2 to the summit, with a few hours rest at C3.” And if Nims says so it must be true 😂
https://www.instagram.com/p/CdVhIYYp9n0/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Cheers.

P-H Herzog
P-H Herzog
16 days ago
Reply to  Apy

Post has been updated.

steilwand
steilwand
16 days ago
Reply to  Apy

Reading Nimsdai’s very hip Instagram post really makes me sad…
He seems to be “smashing” and “cracking” his well-moneyed clients to the top in a whirlwind!
So fundamentally different from when I “scrambled” around the Himalayas in the 1970’s…

Mohammed raza
Mohammed raza
13 days ago
Reply to  steilwand

What’s your problem if he uses that sort of language and the fact of the matter is he is smashing the climbing world out the world.

steilwand
steilwand
12 days ago
Reply to  Mohammed raza

Leider verstehst Du das nicht…

dan
dan
9 days ago
Reply to  steilwand

I’ve personally messaged Nims to ask him to change his language because it ‘makes some people feel sad’. Lol. You use your language and he can use his. Get over it.

steilwand
steilwand
8 days ago
Reply to  dan

Danke Dan. Sound advice. I’ll get over it. Eventually…

Maysnow
Maysnow
15 days ago
Reply to  Apy

Ja, er hat das Problem vielleicht mit Formulierungen gelöst und seinen Jobdamit getan. Auf jeden Fall muss mehr Info kommen, damit Frau Al Thani und die Fussballweltmeisterschaft gerettet sind. Erst krank, dann K. in 2 Tagen, wo alle vorher schon sagten, es ist hart. Wie frei kann sich Frau Thani äußern?

laura
laura
16 days ago

Angela, as things are happening fast now all over the Himalayas, we thank you for your updates, which are as complete, informed, and thoughtful as ever!

LZF
LZF
16 days ago

if a summit is valid in spite of ‘heli rides” and if a helicopter can fly to the top, drop me and pick me up 10 minutes later I would “summit” all 14 eighthousanders in a few days 😛

Richard Salisbury
16 days ago

With more climbers now attempting multi-summits in a single seasons, “short-cuts” will become an increasingly controversial issue. Jing Wang used a helicopter on Everest to get to C2 in 2014 after the season was terminated due to the icefall avalanche that killed 16 Sherpas because she was racing to complete all seven summits in one calendar year. The Nepal Ministry recognized this ascent and gave her a summit certificate. In the Himalayan Database we annotate certain ascents with 1 = Flight-assisted ascent 2 = Flight-assisted descent 4 = Re-ascent from high camp (mainly for Sherpas guiding clients on successive days)… Read more »

Yeti
Yeti
15 days ago

If I remember well, some of her Sherpas said they had NOT summited at all, in the infamous year 2014, but just taken the “summit photos” somewhere way below. Anyway, it was a disgrace, what Wang did that year. But since she had lots of $$$$$$$$$$$$$, she got away with it. Wonder how much she paid whom…

Maysnow
Maysnow
15 days ago

Sehr gut. Und die Sportler sollten es auch posten, wenn der Sport fair bleiben soll, hier oder im Fussball im Jahr 2022 für Quatar!

Kevin P
Kevin P
15 days ago

This is inspiring to no one. I don’t care how Nims tries to spin it. Tired of him and his massive ego. The truth will come out.
FYI… Mingma G’s team had 3 women on it that all climbed 3 8000 meter peaks within a month from top to bottom and back. One of them is even over 50% blind! Those are the women who are killing it.

P-H Herzog
P-H Herzog
15 days ago
Reply to  Kevin P

Who is the partially blind woman please ?

Apy
Apy
15 days ago
Reply to  P-H Herzog

Jill Wheatley

P-H Herzog
P-H Herzog
15 days ago
Reply to  Apy

Thank you !

dan
dan
9 days ago
Reply to  Kevin P

Ego or not. He’s very good at climbing mountains.

Maysnow
Maysnow
15 days ago

Es müssten viele Bergsteiger bestätigen, was gesagt wurde. Wer weiß, was Quatar zahlte für die Flaggenpräsentation. Allein zwischen Everest und K. lustig hin- und herzufliegen, ist natürlich ein Stil, der ohne Begründung von so einer Person in dieser Position auch nicht so stehenbleiben sollte. Warum feiert sie niemand als bergsteigende Frau, erste arabische Frau auf. K.? Was ist da los?