French climber Benjamin Vedrines has set a new speed record on K2, more than halving the previous record. His mindblowing ascent without bottled oxygen took only 11 hours.
On July 28 at 11:10 am, Benjamin Vedrines topped out after climbing the normal route.
“I still find it hard to believe,” Vedrines wrote today on social media. “When I was up there, I also had a hard time realizing where I was and how I got there.”
Beating Chamoux’s record
Setting off at 12:10 am from Advanced Base Camp (5,303m), the reference point for the late Benoit Chamoux’s previous record of 23 hours in 1986, Vedrines managed the demanding ascent this time.
Two years ago, on his first attempt, Vedrines backed out at 8,300m and was later found unconscious by other climbers. “I must say, when I arrived at the place in question, it did something to me,” he says.
Ever since that incident in 2022, Vedrines had wanted to return to K2 for another try. “On July 28, 2022, I was not ready,” he now says. He admitted that he needed to grow as a climber first.
Benjamin Vedrines on K2 without bottled oxygen. Photo: Benjamin Vedrines
All the planets aligned
For Vedrines, Sunday was the day when “all the planets aligned.” He says he felt good at over 8,000m this time, although he had to fight during the last 150m.
“I didn’t really explode with joy up there,” he said. “I felt a little sadness. At the same time, I went so far in the effort and commitment to this project in general that when I got up there…I shed tears, which never happens to me in the mountains.”
Vedrines climbed Broad Peak in July 2022 in a record seven hours before his unsuccessful attempt on K2 that same summer.
Vedrines has not said whether he paraglided down from the summit, which was his initial plan.
Benjamin Vedrines at K2 Base Camp. Photo: Benjamin Vedrines
