First ascents

a climber in a sleeping bag, sitting in the snow in the dark

Weekend Warm-Up: Script to a Very Cold Climb

Rarely is it easy to understand a film through...
3 climbers celebrate

Weekend Warm-Up: Aguja Mermoz, As Straightforward As Patagonia Gets

Maybe surprisingly, the steep east face of Aguja Mermoz...
Romano Benet amongst the seracs.

Top 10 Expeditions of 2023: #8: Kabru South

Peter Hamor didn't have a rewarding experience on Kangchenjunga...
Cerro Nora West in winter

A First Ascent In Northern Patagonia

Last week, Italians Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera made...
The winners stand on stage, smiling and holding their trophies.

New Route in Tien Shan Wins Russian Piolet d’Or

The new route up 6,873m Military Topographers Peak has...
A climber in the shade of the north face, getting his backpack ready.

Japanese Duo Attempts Unclimbed Peak in Eastern Nepal

Another Japanese team has just returned from the Kangchenjunga...
The climber climbing up a smooth, steep ice field, as seen from the leading climber above.

Piolet d’Or Winner Tim Miller On a True Climbing Adventure

Tim Miller is the Millennial half of a cutting-edge...
The climbers smile and hold a Czech flag with a sea of clouds at sunset behind.

Nepal First Ascents: Tengi Ragi Tau, Dhamovar, Jugal 5

Several teams have just returned from Nepal with first...
The first ascent's route of Yansa Tsenji a.k.a Dhagpache or Dragpoche.

A First Ascent in the Langtang Himal

On Oct. 28, IFMGA mountain guides Joshua Jarrin of...
Marva Peak, Peru and the new route of the first ascent of the peak.

Slovakian Duo Makes First Ascent of a Peruvian 5,000’er

From July 15 to Aug. 15, Slovakian climbers Marek...
"Identitat" of Simon Gietl on the west face of Mittlerer Zwolfer in the Sexten Dolomites, Italy.

Solo First Ascent in the Dolomites

Simon Gietl has made a new solo first ascent,...
Karjiang.

The Five Highest Unclimbed Mountains in the World. #4: Karjiang I

In this series, we look at the world's five...
New route and first ascent of the north face of 4,410m Turgen.

A First Ascent in the Northern Tien Shan

On June 22, Kirill Belotserkovskiy and Maxim Popov from...
Chandi Himal mountain.

Chandi Himal, an Ordinary Climber’s First Ascent

When you think about unclimbed 6,000m peaks in Nepal,...
The new route on the north face of Nevado Ausangate.

Japanese Pair Make First Ascent of 1,100m North Face of Ausangate

It took them five hard days, but Yudai Suzuki...
Himalchuli at sunrise.

Forgotten 7,000’ers: Himalchuli

In Nepal, there are 86 peaks (including sub-peaks) between...
Mt. Gya seen from Karzok.

Mount Gya: First Ascent of a Confusing Peak

In the Indian Himalaya, the best-known mountains are 8,586m...
Tirich Mir.

The Hindu Kush and the First Ascent of Tirich Mir

At 7,708m, Pakistan's Tirich Mir is the highest peak...
The climbers smile and make the Victory sign from inside their tent.

First Ascent Teams — and One Skier — Arrive in Nepal

Some of the season's most interesting expeditions have begun...
Jarkya 6,473m.

Japanese to Attempt Unclimbed Jarkya Peak

A Japanese party is heading to Nepal to attempt...
Sajid in trekking attire on a stone cobbled trail covered by a thin layer of fresh snow.

Action on Two Nepal 6,000’ers: First Ascents or Not? Plus: Annapurna, Manaslu

Nepal's Department of Tourism has released the season's first...
Portrait of Schnell against a snowy peak

Hanns Schell: Unlocking the 7,000’ers

Some mountaineers are real explorers. Austrian Hanns Schell fits...
mount michael with clouds and sun in background

A First Ascent of ‘Earth’s Loneliest Volcano’

There’s a lonely volcano in the South Atlantic Ocean,...
a rocky, snow-covered mountain in Scotland

Scotland’s Hardest Winter Route: First Repeat Falls to Filip Babicz

Bring da Ruckus, a fiendishly difficult XII 13 two-pitch...

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