Because of climate change, many climbers in Pakistan are beginning their expeditions earlier than a few years ago. Today, the first day of summer, those heading for the Karakoram are on their way to Base Camp or already there. Some have also adapted their tactics and equipment to rising temperatures. On Nanga Parbat, however, progress seems slower than in previous seasons.
Nanga Parbat
“So far, all good,” expedition leader Mingtemba Sherpa of Seven Summit Treks reported today from Nanga Parbat’s Base Camp. His team’s Sherpa staff have fixed up to Camp 1 and 600m beyond. Clients have done their first acclimatization trip to Camp 1.
Mingtemba says everyone is currently back in Base Camp because the weather has been unstable for the last few days, with rain and snow. Photos show the Diamir Face with more snow than in the last two years. However, the forecast suggests conditions will improve as of tomorrow, allowing climbing to resume.
Andrzej Bargiel of Poland during the approach trek to Nanga Parbat. Photo: @pawlikowski.bartek
Skier Andrzej Bargiel made it to Base Camp last week after a short trek.
Last year, Nanga Parbat teams reached Base Camp by June 6, and the first summits were reported on June 30. At the current pace, it will take longer to reach the top this year, at least if they plan to fix the entire route. The alternative would involve climbers progressing without ropes on the upper sections, short-roped by their Sherpa guides. But they would still need at least two more camps fixed and supplied.
Nanga Parbat.
First team on Broad Peak
David Klein of Hungary, climbing with Ian Overton of the U.S., is already at the 4,850m Base Camp on Broad Peak. They are settling in and preparing for their first acclimatization trip to Camp 1, up a long ramp of snow and scree.
The Hungarian confirmed they are completely alone on the mountain, since other teams only plan to leave Skardu this weekend. They intend to fix ropes to Camp 1, where necessary.
David Klein of Hungary in Base Camp on Broad Peak yesterday. Photo: David Klein
Not-so-easy Gasherbrum II
Horia Colibasanu of Romania has returned to Gasherbrum II, hoping to succeed on a peak he failed to summit in 2024 and 2025. “They said it was easy, but it didn’t seem easy to me,” he told ExplorersWeb.
The problem on that mountain is, surprisingly, the heat, especially on the way across the Gasherbrum Glacier to Camp 1. That section is exposed to the sun all day, which makes the going harder and increases the crevasse risk.
However, Colibasanu has learned from experience and has come better prepared this time. In 2024, I carried skis and wore dark clothes. Now all my equipment is white to reflect the blazing sun,” he said.
Colibasanu noted he is better acclimatized and carries a lighter pair of boots than those he used on other 8,000’ers.
Strong Spaniards
Colibasanu has joined a group of Spanish climbers heading for the Gasherbrums. Most of them are highly experienced, and like him, are used to climbing independently and without supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support. The team includes 14×8,000m summiter Jorge Egocheaga, Martin Ramos (10 8,000’ers summited, only Everest done with oxygen), and the veteran couple Ignacio Barrio and Uxue Murolas.
“Gasherbrum II is our first objective, but if all goes well, we might apply for a permit to climb Gasherbrum I as well, always independently and without supplemental oxygen,” Barrio told ExplorersWeb from Islamabad. He has previously summited Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu (the latter with Uxue), and Manaslu without bottled O2.
Martin Ramos, left, and Horia Colibasanu boarded a plane to Skardu earlier today. Photo: Horia Colibasanu
Martin Ramos will climb Gasherbrum I. The routes for both Gasherbrums share the approach and Camp 1.
Colibasanu told ExplorersWeb that two more Spanish women are on the team. Everyone flew to Skardu today.
Few Western operators
A small team launched by the European branch of SummitClimb is also heading for the Gasherbrums, led by Felix Berg of Germany. Their local outfitter is Lela Peaks Expeditions.
No other Western outfitters have confirmed trips to Pakistan’s 8,000’ers this summer. Garrett Madison of the U.S. will guide in the Alps and on Elbrus this summer; Furtenbach Adventures also has no guided teams on Pakistan’s 8,000ers.
A few Nepalese and Pakistani operators have announced expeditions to K2, but none have confirmed as yet.
