After a failed summit attempt last weekend, some Gasherbrum climbers still hope for a new summit opportunity led by the Nepalese teams, now reinforced by Nirmal Purja, who is pursuing a new record.
First attempt
Horia Colibasanu and the Spanish team are back in Camp 1 after high avalanche risk thwarted their summit attempt. Colibasanu and some other climbers had been carrying their gear up from camp to camp. They launched a summit push from Camp 3 at around 7,000m on Friday night.
Colibasanu, who climbed without bottled oxygen, reported he was advancing at a good pace and was feeling great, despite the heat. In front of them was a Sherpa team. All went well until a section of deep, heavy snow at 7,400-7,500m.
“The Spanish climbers, being taller, were sinking up to their waists, and the Sherpas, who are shorter, almost up to their chests,” he noted.
Horia Colibasanu of Romania, left, and Jorge Egocheaga of Spain. Photo: Horia Colibasanu
“We decided to turn back, mainly on the recommendation of the Sherpas, who are very experienced. They considered it not worth the risk of traversing that section, neither for their clients nor for themselves,” Colibasanu said. He also said the Sherpa team had run out of ropes.
Still hopeful
Sherpa leaders Mingma G of Imagine Nepal and Makalu Lakpa, working for 14 Peaks Expeditions, confirmed the retreat but did not mention any shortage of ropes.
Makalu Lakpa posted today from the base of the mountain, possibly from Camp 1. He shows no intention of leaving.
Makalu Lakpa at Camp 1 on the Gasherbrums. Photo: Makalu Lakpa/Instagram
“We have safely fixed the climbing route, carried the ropes, and deposited the essential summit supplies needed for the final push,” he wrote. “Our expedition members have successfully completed their acclimatization rotation…We are now one step closer to our summit attempt.”
Colibasanu and the group of climbers going without supplemental oxygen are waiting for the commercial teams to lay ropes, especially on the most avalanche-prone sections.
“Another team of five Sherpas, together with [Nirmal Purja] and German guide Felix Berg [leader of the European office of Summit Climb] will be trying to reopen the route tomorrow night,” Colibasanu said. “The forecast is not great for the next few days, but we are trying to see if there is still a chance of reaching the summit.”
Sherpas back in Camp 3
On social media today, Purja explains they were the last team to reach Base Camp due to some delays with their loads. Once there, they immediately set off for Camp 1, coordinating with Imagine Nepal, as they often do. Each has 400m of rope to fix on the mountain.
Today, Purja described the current situation on Gashewrbrum II:
Right now we are at C3, and two Sherpas from Imagine Nepal and two Sherpas from EliteExped are opening the route a bit further and trying to pass a traverse section. They have said that the snow conditions are much better.
Purja, in particular, has a strong motivation to climb Gasherbrum II, whatever the weather. He is trying to become the first person to summit the 14×8,000’ers three times. He is also leading at least one client.
