Climbers Reach Nanga Parbat, the First of Pakistan’s Summer 8,000’ers

Foreign climbers have started to arrive in Pakistan, and most of them are flying directly to Skardu. Some teams, porters, and BC staff are on their way to the Baltoro and to the Base Camps of K2, Broad Peak and the Gasherbrums. Yet the favorite June mountain remains Nanga Parbat, which lies further to the southwest, still within the Himalaya.

“Our first group reached Base Camp today,” Akhbar Syed of Lela Peak Expeditions told ExplorersWeb. Their team includes Matoco Erroz, Juan Pablo Toro, Alberto Peruffo, Valerio Annovazzo, Cesar Rosales, Ali Musa Sadpara, Imtiaz Sadpara, and Hassan Shigri.

The Naked Goddess will host a mix of climbers hoping to tick off as many 8,000’ers as possible in the shortest time and others climbing at a slower pace without supplementary O2.

Several red tents on a grassy field

Nanga Parbat’s Base Camp today. Photo: Lela Peak Expeditions

 

The no-O2 group includes:

  • Mario Vielmo. Nanga Parbat is the last Pakistani 8,000’er he has to summit. His teammates are Tarcisio Bello and Nicola Bonaiti.
  • Alex Gavan of Romania, whose partner this time is Pawel Michalski of Poland. Gavan last visited Pakistan to attempt Winter K2 but left the expedition after Sergi Mingote died.
  • Confortola has seemingly recovered from the vision problems he reported at the end of his recent Kangchenjunga expedition. Otherwise, he has given little further explanation about the doubts raised by climbers, outfitters, and the media about his summit claim on that mountain.

Kashif, Brownlee, Harila

In fact, Confortola is shortly going to run into some past Kangchenjunga “summit” partners, including Shehroze Kashif of Pakistan. Kashif summited Kangchenjunga at 3:05 pm on May 5, the same day that Confortola launched his summit push. Kashif’s team has declined to comment on the allegations about Confortola.

The young Pakistani, who had a working tracker and plenty of summit proof on Kangchenjunga, returned to C4 for the night. Here, Kashif told Chris Warner that he had been the first to reach the summit on May 5, together with the rope-fixing team. Confortola’s alleged summit time, without O2, was 2:30 pm — half an hour before the rope fixers.

Bushy-haired young climber in sunglasses and down parka

Shehroze Kashif. Photo: Instagram

The young and the restless

If successful, Nanga Parbat will become the 20-year-old Kashif’s 8th 8,000’er. He is also negotiating with potential sponsors in order to climb the Gasherbrums this summer as well.

Also expected are the 14×8,000’ers record-seekers. This includes Kristin Harila of Norway, likely with Sherpa guides Pasdawa and Dawa Ongchu, as well as Adriana Brownlee and Gelje Sherpa. Gelje has confirmed that he is joining Brownlee for as many of Pakistan’s 8,000’ers as possible. So far, Brownlee has climbed seven 8,000m peaks. She is already halfway through her quest after just one year.

Her only failure was Lhotse in 2021, but she summited it this spring. She admitted on Instagram, “All my memories are a blur…It feels like every moment was equally mentally draining and so it’s hard to distinguish between every [mountain].” Not surprising.

Woman in red down suit with clouds below her

Adriana Brownlee, at some 8,000m summit this past spring. Photo: Adriana Brownlee/Instagram

 

Brownlee is also hoping to break an age record. Now 21, she intends to summit all 14 8,000’ers by 23. She has some work to do in Pakistan since she has not climbed any of the country’s biggest mountains.

It remains to be seen whether the weather in Pakistan will cooperate as much as Nepal’s did last month. The rope-fixing teams will also have to hurry to get the normal routes ready and the camps supplied with oxygen in time for Brownlee, Harila, and other multi-peak climbers to speed up Pakistan’s five 8,000m peaks.

Angela Benavides is a journalist specialised on high-altitude mountaineer and expedition news working with ExplorersWeb.com.

Angela Benavides has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of national and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporates, press manager and communication executive, radio reporter and anchorwoman, etc. Experience in Education: Researcher at Spain’s National University for Distance Learning on the European Commission-funded ECO Learning Project; experience in teaching ELE (Spanish as a Second Language) and transcultural training for expats living in Spain.

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Peter Flynn
Peter Flynn
25 days ago

K2 might be the spanner in the work….

Apy
Apy
25 days ago

Also exciting to follow on NP/K2/BP will be the six-man Italian team of François Cazzanelli, Marco Camandona, Pietro Picco, Emrik Favre, Jérôme Perruquet and Roger Bovard.

Don
Don
23 days ago

Adriana would have to return to Manaslu having not reached the summit.

Steve
Steve
23 days ago
Reply to  Don

Same with Broadboy. To reach the true summit.