Czechs Climb Ama Dablam’s West Face Via the American Direct Route

In 2020, on his last trip to Nepal before the pandemic, Zdenek Hak opened a new route on Chamlang with Marek Holecek that earned them a Piolet d’Or. Returning last spring, he bagged the first ascent of the North Face of Kangchung Shar (6,063m) with Jaroslaw Bansky. Now, the unstoppable Czech climber has set another level of excellence by climbing Ama Dablam’s vertical West Face, with Jakub Kacha.

Hak and Kacha’s route up the West Face of Ama Dablam. Photo: Climbing Technology CZ


The pair first climbed the normal route as an appetizer. They then went for the main course up the West Face, following the American Direct route. Hak and Kacha needed three days to summit and one more to get back down, according to their sponsor, Climbing Technology CZ. Back in Base Camp, the climbers graded the route TD+/ ED- and said that it had been hard but enjoyable.

Hak and Kacha after climbing Ama Dablam’s West Face. Photo: Climbing Technology CZ


The American Direct Route

Glen Dunmire and Chris Warner opened the American Direct in 1990 — in winter! It follows a rocky spur up the middle of the West Face. The U.S. climbers needed three days for its 60 pitches, beginning on the first day of winter. The line lies between the 1985 Japanese route and the Smid route, named after another Czech climber, Miroslav Smid, who soloed it in 1986.

On Ama Dablam’s West Face. Photo: Climbing Technology CZ

Snug, sort of, on the West Face of Ama Dablam. Photo: Climbing Technology CZ


Speaking of Ama Dablam, Italian Francois Cazzanelli and his partners decided to give it a (very fast) try after climbing Kongde Ri and Tengkampoche. On November 11, Cazzanelli sprinted from BC to summit, reaching it in 5 hrs 32 min 6 sec.

He then rejoined his slower partners in Camp 3. Here, they responded to an SOS call from Mingma David Sherpa. His client, an Iranian woman, had fallen seriously ill. The Italians helped in the rescue and long-line evacuation, before resuming their descent to BC.

Francois Cazzanelli on top of Ama Dablam, less than six hours after leaving BC. Photo: Francois Cazzanelli