One of the most important figures in the history of the 8,000m peaks is returning to the Greater Ranges in grand style. Denis Urubko will climb a new route on Nanga Parbat in June, then attempt what he calls “real winter firsts” on Broad Peak and Gasherbrum I the following winter.
Finally recovered from the frostbite he suffered during a winter attempt on Gasherbrum I in January 2024, the 51-year-old Russian will travel in May to Nanga Parbat in Pakistan’s Himalaya for a new route on the Diamir side of the mountain, Montagna.TV reported.
“It will be an authentic new route, not a variant presented as an independent route,” he said during a lecture in Terni, Italy.
Real winter
As for his cold-season plans on Broad Peak and Gasherbrum I, the ever-strict Urubko defines winter as meteorological winter (December 1 to March 1) where climbing is concerned. As it happens, the first winter ascents of Broad Peak and GI took place on March 5 and March 9. By Urubko’s criteria, that’s early spring.
When he was asked at the lecture if new routes remain on the 8,000’ers, Urubko replied that there are many, even on Everest. “No route has ever been opened without oxygen and in authentic alpine style,” he insisted.
Urubko admitted he would love to achieve such a feat.
A living legend
Denis Urubko has summited all the 8,000m peaks without supplementary oxygen or Sherpa support. He also has two winter first ascents, on Makalu (with Simone Moro) and Gasherbrum II (with Moro and Cory Richards).
Urubko has opened new routes on the highly difficult south side of Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Broad Peak, and Gasherbrum II (solo). He has also made a name for himself — and many friends around the world — for the many rescues he has performed in the Himalaya.
One of them made him an international hero and earned him France’s Legion of Honor. In 2018, he and Adam Bielecki of Poland abandoned their own attempt on winter K2 and hurried to Nanga Parbat to launch the nearly impossible rescue of Tomasz Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol. They couldn’t reach Mackiewicz but saved Revol’s life.
