Denis Urubko of Russia has confirmed he and his wife Maria Cardell will attempt Nanga Parbat (8,126m) via a new route in the next few weeks.
Yesterday, we wrote about how the improving situation in Pakistan could prompt climbers to visit this season, especially smaller, alpine-style teams.
Denis Urubko and Maria Cardell. Photo: Maria Cardell
Urubko has not yet revealed details about the route, but he made his priorities clear when he spoke about his plans during a lecture in Italy in March: “No route has ever been opened without oxygen and in authentic alpine style.” At that moment, he said his goal was to open a new route on the mountain’s Diamir Face.
Two years badly frostbiting his fingers while trying to open a new route on winter Gasherbrum, Urubko is back to high-altitude mountaineering. He is also the first climber attempting a new route on an 8,000m peak this year.
Urubko announced the expedition on his 52nd birthday.
Mountain master
Denis Urubko has summited all the 8,000m peaks without supplementary oxygen or Sherpa support. He also has two first winter ascents, on Makalu (with Simone Moro) and Gasherbrum II (with Moro and Cory Richards).
Urubko has opened new routes on the highly difficult south side of Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Broad Peak, and Gasherbrum II (solo). He has also made a name for himself — and friends around the world — for the many rescues he has performed in the Himalaya.
One of them made him an international hero and earned him France’s Legion of Honor. In 2018, he and Adam Bielecki of Poland abandoned their own attempt on winter K2 and hurried to Nanga Parbat to launch the nearly impossible rescue of Tomasz Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol. They couldn’t reach Mackiewicz but saved Revol’s life.
