Italian Duo Send New Dolomites Route

Earlier this month, Emanuele Anderozzi and Matteo Faletti climbed a spectacular new line on the north face of Cimon della Pala in the Pale di San Martino group of the Italian Dolomites. Elements of Life is a mixed climb graded AI5/M6.

Photo: @emanuele_andreozzi


Initially, the pair followed the ice wall climbed by Patrick Gasperini, Flavio Piccinini, and Tiziani Vanzetta in January 2020. After 100m, they branched off onto new terrain for a further 800m.

Photo: @emanuele_andreozzi


“Making this climb on such a hot and sunny day, when no one would ever think of climbing ice, is a sign of the insane disease I have for mountaineering,” Anderozzi said afterward. “We followed the weakest and most logical line up the face.”

In the Dolomites, he added, such a new route is possible only in winter, partly using ice, he said. In summer, similarly spectacular lines were opened decades ago.

“The 900m of virgin terrain surprised us…with a very beautiful and varied climb,” Anderozzi said. “Vertical ice, lots of mixed climbing, and a sharp cornice halfway up the route.”

The ice conditions for their climb were exceptional, despite the mild time of year. Even when it’s hot elsewhere, the north face gets little sun and stays well below zero.

Elements of Life. Photo: Matteo Visintainer