Drama on Huascaran: One Dead, Rescue Underway For 2nd

On June 23, two female Japanese mountaineers, Saki Terada, 36, and Chiaki Inada, 40, became stranded on 6,757m Nevado Huascaran, Peru’s highest peak. One of them is now confirmed dead.

Nevado Huascaran.

Nevado Huascaran. Photo: Wikipedia

 

The two veteran climbers arrived in Peru in early June and spent two weeks acclimatizing. They then started climbing Huascaran and likely summited earlier this week.

The weather has been challenging on Huascaran, with poor visibility above 6,000m. Terada and Inada became lost in the fog in the huge area just below the summit. They could not find their high camp and had to bivouac at around 6,500m, according to Latina Noticias.

There, health problems set in. One of the climbers went snowblind because of cerebral edema, and in nighttime temperatures as low as -30°C, hypothermia also affected them. Inada was in particularly poor condition.

Marked in green where Terada and Inada got stranded.

The green arrow shows where Terada and Inada became stranded. Frame of a video published by Latina Noticias

 

Distress call

Terada and Inada sent a distress call via their InReach device on June 24, after spending two nights outside. Deep snow and poor visibility continued to complicate the situation. The climbers had cell service on the mountain and also asked for local rescue.

Where Terada and Inada got stranded. The huge area below the summit is were they got lost during in the fog during the descent.

The pen indicates where Terada and Inada became stranded in the fog. Frame of a video published by Latina Noticias

 

Peru’s National Police mobilized specialized rescue teams. A helicopter made three rescue sorties, but continuing poor weather didn’t allow it to reach the two climbers. So from an altitude of 4,800m, rescuers started to move up on foot toward them, according to the TV station, Latina Noticias.

On June 25, both climbers were located, thanks to their InReach device. Unfortunately, by then, Inada had succumbed to hypothermia and was confirmed dead at the scene. Rescuers are currently bringing Terada down the mountain.

Saki Terada and Chiaki Inada.

Saki Terada and Chiaki Inada. Photo: Instagram

 

Terada and Inada are experienced mountaineers, and Inada also served as an expedition doctor.

Terada was a member of the Himalayan Camp, a Japanese mountaineering group known for organizing high-altitude expeditions. In 2023, she participated in the Sharpu VI expedition in Nepal.

Saki Terada, right on the photo, alongside Takahiro Kaneko, center, and Takahiro Ishikawa, left, during the Himalayan Camp's expedition in 2023.

Saki Terada, at right, with Takahiro Kaneko, center, and Takahiro Ishikawa during the Himalayan Camp’s 2023 expedition. Photo: Takahiro Kaneko

Kris Annapurna

KrisAnnapurna is a writer with ExplorersWeb.

Kris has been writing about history and tales in alpinism, news, mountaineering, and news updates in the Himalaya, Karakoram, etc., for with ExplorersWeb since 2021. Prior to that, Kris worked as a real estate agent, interpreter, and translator in criminal law. Now based in Madrid, Spain, she was born and raised in Hungary.