Japanese Fall Short on Sharpu VI

The three-member Japanese team attempting unclimbed Sharpu VI launched their last-ditch summit push on schedule from a high camp yesterday. Then their plans changed.

Takahiro Kaneko, Saki Terada, and Takahiro Ishikawa had set up two camps and fixed part of the route up Sharpu VI. The 6,076m peak lies in the Kangchenjunga region of eastern Nepal, in a valley midway between Kangchenjunga and Jannu. They fly home to Tokyo later this week, so they had no time to spare.

Yesterday, they were ready to go for the top from their highest camp. The weather was good, but during the 18-hour push, they encountered a seemingly impassable section at 6,000m on the Sharpu Glacier.

climbers in light mountain clothes, possibly during the approaching trek.

Takahiro Kaneko, center, flanked by Takahiro Ishikawa, left, and Saki Terada, right. Photo: Takahiro Kaneko


It was too late in the day to find another passage to the summit. On their way back, they climbed a lower mountain that lay just off their route. According to the information available at the time, the peak was also unclimbed and known as Tha Nagphu (5,980m). Later, however, they discovered that another party had climbed it in 2017.

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.