French climbers Charles Dubouloz and Symon Welfringer are teaming up again to attempt one of the most epic peaks in the Karakoram: Gasherbrum IV.
“Our primary objective is the southwest ridge, starting by climbing the Shining Wall [the West Face] and then continuing along the ridge to the summit,” Dubouloz told ExplorersWeb. He noted that this is the route twice attempted by Piolet d’Or winner Jordi Corominas in 2006.
The West Face of Gasherbrum IV is called the Shining Wall because the setting sun lights it up spectacularly. It offers a formidable sight to climbers and trekkers as they reach the glacier crossroads known as Concordia, on their way to K2 Base Camp. The 2,500m-high face is one of the most aesthetic and difficult in the world. It was the scene of some epic chapters in the history of mountaineering.
The West Face of Gasherbrum IV, aka the Shining Wall. Photo: Shutterstock
Given the changeable conditions in the Karakoram and the magnitude of the challenge, Dubouloz, 36, and Welfringer, 31, are hedging their bets. Once at the foot of the wall, they may consider other routes or, if it proves impossible, opt for an alternative goal.
“Other possibilities would be climbing Gasherbrum V [G5] or attempting a G5/G6 traverse,” Dubouloz said. “Additionally, if the weather turns bad, we’re open to exploring the lesser-known 6,000m peaks around base camp.”
These peaks could also serve as preparatory climbs.
Staying flexible
Adapting to conditions is one of the pair’s assets. The last time they climbed together in the Himalaya was in the spring of 2024. On that occasion, they went to Nepal with 7,952m Gyachung Kang in mind. Then Welfringer got sick, and as they were running out of time, they ended up opening an excellent new alpine-style route up the vertiginous west face of neighboring 7,029m Hungchi.
“When you go on an expedition to the end of the world, things rarely happen as expected,” Dubouloz explained at the time.
Doubuloz and Welfringer in front of Hungchi. Photo: Mathurin-Millet
The climbers plan to keep the same flexibility this year.
A change of venue
The Gasherbrum massif will be a significant change for Welfringer after last summer, when he teamed up with Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schupbach, and Alex Gammeter on remote big walls in Eastern Greenland. The team achieved the first ascent of a 1,980m face.
Dubouloz is also restless after a busy winter climbing, skiing, and flying at home in the Chamonix area and across Europe and northern Africa. Year after year, his name appears linked to some of the best expeditions in the Himalaya and the Karakoram. He is a regular partner of fellow hard-core visionaries Benjamin Vedrines and Tom Livingstone — and, of course, Symon Welfringer.
Charles Dubouloz in the French Alps three days ago. Photo: Charles Dubouloz
