The first Everest summits of 2023 will have to wait a bit longer. A new snowstorm is approaching, temporarily stopping the rope fixing beyond Camp 4, Mingma G told ExplorersWeb from Base Camp.
Luckily, the weather was good yesterday when Bruce Davis Smith of the U.S. asked for a rescue from Camp 1 above the Khumbu Icefall. He had some unspecified problem with his leg. A helicopter airlifted him to Base Camp, The Himalayan Times reported, where the Himalayan Rescue Association’s doctors treated him.
Kilian’s run
Kilian Jornet above Camp 2 on Everest. Photo: Kilian Jornet/Facebook
Kilian Jornet definitely does not need helicopters. Earlier this week, he ran from Namche Bazaar to Everest Base Camp. The following morning, he went up to 6,600m (above Camp 2), then ran back to Namche.
“My duffel bag hadn’t arrived, so yesterday’s trip was without food,” he wrote.
Teams rotating
Since the last snowy spell on April 24, most climbers have done their first acclimatization rounds to Camps 1 and 2. Some stayed there for several days. The Furtenbach Adventures team plans to spend five nights at the Western Cwm, guide Dave Watson wrote on Instagram.
Camp 2 is huge and very well-supplied and comfortable, even in bad weather. For previously acclimatized climbers or for those who will rely on oxygen right from Camp 2, this could be their last partial climb before a summit push.
With the total number of permits this year nudging toward 500, plus an equal or larger number of guides on the mountain, crowding is once more a cause for concern. Asmita Dorjee of India, also climbing without O2 (but with Sherpa support) recorded a video of a busy Khumbu Icefall yesterday:
More on no-O2 climbers
As usual, those climbing without oxygen will need more acclimatization. On their first round up the mountain, they need to spend at least a night or two in Camp 2 at 6,400m. Suhajda Szilard of Hungary, for example, spent two nights at Camp 2, then climbed up the Lhotse wall to 6,700m on what he describes as easy terrain. Overall, the Hungarian climber is happy with how things are going.
“The route through the Khumbu Icefall is said to be longer than last year, but it looked less threatening, which is really good news,” he said.
Suhajda Szilard on Everest earlier this week. Photo: Suhajda Szilard
Russians Vitali Lazo and Anton Pugovkin, aiming to climb no-O2 and ski down Everest, did their second rotation on Monday. They spent the first night in Camp 2 and another in Camp 3. Today, they planned to climb as high as possible, then return to Base Camp before the snow started.
Vitali Lazo and Anton Pugovkin with their skis somewhere near Camp 2 on Everest. Photo: Facebook
Dhaulagiri
The rope fixing is progressing slowly on Dhaulagiri.
“We are ready and waiting for the right summit window,” Oswald Pereira told Explorersweb over the satphone. He and Polish compatriot Bartek Ziemski are waiting impatiently to progress. Ziemski wants to ski down Dhaulagiri, as he recently did on Annapurna.
Earlier this week, they carried 400m of rope on their first foray up the mountain. “We wanted to help the rope fixers,” Pereira said. The idea was also to test their acclimatization and strength.
From Camp 1, they made a depot at “low” Camp 2 at 6,100m, then went back to Base Camp.
“This was a great chance for Bartek to check the ski route and conditions. He skied from Camp 2 to Base Camp in 27 minutes,” Pereira wrote later. Going on foot, Pereira made it back in one hour and 57 minutes.
Uta Ibraini on Dhaulagiri. Photo: Facebook
Uta Ibraini of Kosovo also reached Dhaulagiri’s Camp 2. She reported hard going in deep snow. “But I am finally in Camp 2 and finishing my rotations,” she said.
Kangchenjunga
Progress is also slow on Kangchenjunga. Teams have been stuck in Base Camp and unable to move up because of heavy snow on the mountain.
Yesterday, Domi Trastoy of Andorra reported the first day of good weather in a week. “We were barely able to climb up to 6,000m twice, and both times in snow up to our knees,” he said.
Now that conditions have improved, he and other climbers intend to spend more time at altitude.
Domi Trsatoy of Andorra on Kangchenjunga. Photo: Instagram
