Two New Ice Routes in Kazakhstan

Between August 2 and August 11, Kirill Belotserkovskiy and two Austrian friends, Traudl We and Geri Mairhofer, hiked 50km and did two new ice routes in Kazakhstan.

The trio climbed the north face of Molodaya Gvardiya (4,398m, AI1 400m), and the north face of Muryntau (4,510m AI1 300m). Belotserkovskiy has shared details from their short but intense exploratory expedition.

A little-known region

First, the team drove to Ozyornoye Gorge and hiked to a hut in the Kyzylsay Valley. On the second day, Traudl and Belotserkovskiy climbed the north face of Molodaya Gvardiya in excellent weather.

The next day, the small team crossed Turistov Pass and hiked down the valley to the junction of the Turistov and Levi Talgar rivers.

Muryntau, 4510. (1) Original route, North Ridge, 2B; (2) Belotserkovskiy's and partners' route, AI1 300m.

Muryntau, 4510. (1) Original route, North Ridge, 2B; (2) Belotserkovskiy and partners’ route, AI1 300m. Photo: Kirill Belotserkovskiy


Over the following days, they moved on to their next target, passing close to Toguzak Glacier. On day eight of the expedition, the three men climbed the north face of Muryntau in bad weather and fog. Then, the party hiked down the Toguzak moraine, waded through Levi Talgar, and hiked down Levi Talgar Valley before finally heading up Talgarskiy Pass to camp nearby. From there, they went to Shymbulak and finished their expedition.

Belotserkovskiy plans to write an extensive trip report. These less-known regions have lots of possibilities for unique climbing objectives.

Photos from the expedition published by Kirill Belotserkovskiy.

From the expedition. Photo: Kirill Belotserkovskiy

Kris Annapurna

KrisAnnapurna is a writer with ExplorersWeb.

Kris has been writing about history and tales in alpinism, news, mountaineering, and news updates in the Himalaya, Karakoram, etc., for the past year with ExplorersWeb. Prior to that, Kris worked as a real estate agent, interpreter, and translator in criminal law. Now based in Madrid, Spain, she was born and raised in Hungary.