Speed climber Filip Babicz took advantage of the first ice of the season in the Alps, opening what he described as a “modern mixed” M7 route on the NE face of the Petit Flambeau, a classic spire in the Mont Blanc massif.
The direct, 200m line that goes up the central part of the slabby granite face. Unlike other projects, which Babicz spent months planning, he had an “intuition” to jump on this route. Quickly, he enlisted UIAGM guide Heike Schmitt, bought the tickets for the cable car from the Italian side of Mont Blanc, and went for it on November 1. (He just posted the details yesterday.) He called the route Partita Lampo (Lightning Game).
Good news and bad news
For those considering a repetition, Babicz says there is good and bad news. First, the belays are bolted with spits and the route begins just 20 minutes from the Sky Line cable car from Courmayeur to Point Helbronner. (It’s been closed since November 4 but reopens on November 29.) Finally, still on the plus side of the ledger, the descent from the summit to the Col de Flambeau is an easy trek.
However, the route should not be underestimated, he cautions. Except for the belays and two bolts (one on the third pitch and another on the fifth), it must be protected. Babicz and Schmitt used Camalots nº 1, 2, and 4.
Pitch-by-pitch description
Babicz detailed the route on social media. First, there is a long but straightforward M3 pitch from the snowfield to the center of the face’s shield (a big, smooth slab).
The second pitch follows a series of thick, ice-filled cracks, including an overhanging section (25m, M6+). Happily, the belay is on a comfortable terrace. The route then follows two dihedrals and the final overhang of the shield. It then turns slightly to the left and continues up a chimney until the belay (30m, M6).
The tricky fourth pitch required climbing a smooth face with little protection until Babicz reached another dihedral above and to the left. This was the crux of the climb. He then followed the dihedral until the belay (20m, M7).
The fifth length of rope was easier. Eventually, Babicz followed the ridge to another belay, then continued to the foresummit of the Petit Flambeau, just 10 meters beyond (30m, M3). He said he could have rappelled down the route but found it easier to descend on foot via the Col Flambeau.
Filip Babicz of Poland specializes in speed — and often solo climbs — on routes around the world, but especially in the Alps. This past September, he climbed all four ridges of Matterhorn in 7 hours, 43 minutes, and 43 seconds.
Previously, he did speed ascents of the complete Peuterey Ridge to Mont Blanc, Piz Badile, and Grand Capucin. He is also a superb dry-tooler, with feats such as the first repetition of Bring da Ruckus. Many consider this Scotland’s hardest mixed winter route.
