Goettler Returns to Nanga Parbat For Fourth Alpine-Style Attempt

David Goettler has returned to Pakistan’s Nanga Parbat with partner Mike Arnold of the U.S. They are ready to attempt the summit alpine style — no supplementary oxygen, no support beyond Base Camp — as soon as weather allows. Forecasts show poor weather on Nanga Parbat for the rest of the week.

The climbers started acclimatizing in Nepal last month, with three weeks of hiking, climbing, skiing, and paragliding in the Khumbu. This culminated with an ascent of Baruntse. Arnold skied down from the summit while Goettler paraglided, as the video below shows.

Then they moved to Pakistan and drove directly to Base Camp, where they have been completing their preparations.

“Now (we’re) just hoping for more favorable and consistent weather for a summit attempt,” Goettler wrote yesterday.

The climbers have not specified their route, although they note that they will not use fixed ropes. This suggests they are not doing the normal route on the Diamir side, which already has several commercial climbers.

Previously, Goettler has always attempted Nanga Parbat via the Schell route on the Rupal Face. He tried twice in winter, first in 2013-14 and then in 2021-22 with Herve Barmasse and Arnold. He attempted it again last summer with Benjamin Vedrines.

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.