Love it or hate it, Everest keeps attracting the attention of audiences, climbers, and would-be climbers. Among the hundreds of anonymous clients, this year sees the return of a number of familiar faces. Here are a few you might recognize, and their plans.
Everest FKT Duel, Part 2
With the North Side of Everest closed this season, Tyler Andrews, 35, has been forced to bow to circumstances and switch to the South (Nepalese) Side of the mountain. He will again try to set the Fastest Known Time (FKT) without bottled oxygen. Last year, this puts the American runner in open competition with Karl Egloff, 44, of Ecuador, who is pursuing the same goal. We will discuss more details with Andrews in an interview next week.
Tyler Andrews. Photo: Tyler Andrews/Instagram
Egloff is determined to achieve the fastest time for a complete return trip (Base Camp-summit-Base Camp). He will fly to Nepal on April 14 and is currently working out intensely. Apart from the rest of his training, he has already spent 3,000 hours in a hypoxic chamber.
The Everest man
Kami Rita Sherpa, aka “The Everest man” for his unprecedented 31 summits, will return to the roof of the world, leading an international team while trying for number 32. The 56-year-old Sherpa guide summited Everest for the first time in 1994 and has been on the mountain nearly every year since then.
One of a kind: Kami Rita Sherpa. Photo: Seven Summit Treks
Harila
Kristin Harila of Norway is returning to Everest to attempt the mountain with Sherpa support but without bottled oxygen. Harila became well known for climbing the 14 8000’ers in a brisk 92 days with Tenjen Lama Sherpa in 2023.
She also plans to complete the so-called Triple Crown, which includes Everest and its neighbors, Lhotse and Nuptse. She has not yet shared details about her outfitter or guides. Harila attempted Everest without oxygen last year but did not succeed.
Tibet’s closure stymies plans
On social media a few days ago, the Norwegian showed interest in climbing Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma this spring, but both mountains will remain closed until the fall, at the earliest.
Harila tried to organize a project to recover the body of Tenjen Lama Sherpa, who guided her on her six-month, 14×8,000m round. Tenjen died in an avalanche on Shisha Pangma in the autumn of 2023 with client Gina Marie Rzucidlo of the U.S.
Harila raised money from individual donors to finance the expedition, but the attempt never took place. Her GoFundMe is still open with 3% of the planned funding raised.
Purja aims for three
Before Harila, the previous fastest climber to complete all the 8,000m peaks was Nirmal Purja. The Nepal-born UK citizen has kept climbing non-stop, mainly leading teams for his expedition company, EliteExped. He is currently attempting to summit all 14 8,000’ers for the third time. His increasing 8,000m tally has become part of his work as an expedition leader. Currently, he needs Cho Oyu and Gasherbrum II to complete the hat trick.
