Himalayan Database: This Was the First Manaslu Summit Since 2012

Manaslu
Looking back on a foresummit of Manaslu from the true summit. Photo: Mingma G/Instagram

Tobias Pantel of The Himalayan Database has put Mingma G’s summit of Manaslu in historical context.

“Yesterday was the first time people stood on the summit since Guy Cotter et al in spring 2012,” Pantel told ExplorersWeb.

Since then, every other Manaslu climber has only reached a foresummit.

However, contrary to Mingma’s G’s belief, this was not the first autumn summit of Manaslu. “The real summit was climbed in autumn once before, in 1976,” Pantel added.

He is referring to an Iranian-Japanese expedition that on October 12, 1976, put Jun Kageyama, J. M. Assadi, and Pasang Sherpa atop Manaslu.

Photo: Jackson Groves/journeyera.com

A remarkable drone image by photographer-climber Jackson Groves, posted on Instagram, shows the summit ridge of Manaslu like never before. In it, a group of climbers, perhaps Mingma G’s Imagine Nepal clients, cluster near a foresummit. Meanwhile, Mingma G and another unidentified climber make a dizzying traverse well below them. They are heading to where they can climb up without having to negotiate the unstable, dipping arete between the last foresummit and the summit.

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Sheeny
Sheeny
2 months ago

Maybe some people have gone to the summit since 2012? I presume the people who have really gone would actually be motivated to prove their claims and the ones who didn’t would just go along with whatever.

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MV Alvarez
2 months ago

And what about Sergi Mingote summit, with Lakpa and Moe, on September 25, 2018?

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Pawel
Pawel
2 months ago
Reply to  MV Alvarez

From summit video looks like that he climbed only to the foresummit too. Interesting…

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Federico Bernardi
2 months ago
Reply to  MV Alvarez

It wasn’t the true summit

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MV Alvarez
2 months ago

Yes, he reached the top. We were in contact with him all the time and we know what hard and dangerous it was and how long it took him to cross the last few meters of the ridge. They ascended with the rope fixing equipment and then 3 climbers continued to the top. But I won’t argue. Now it is fashionable to say that no one has reached the top of Manaslu. Sergi never lied and there are videos that prove it, it seems to me a lack of respect for his memory.
https://www.elperiodico.com/es/videos/barcelona/sido-ascenso-sergi-mingote-cima/4470410.shtml

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Danny Gordin
Danny Gordin
1 month ago
Reply to  MV Alvarez

Hola MV Alvarez, I also really wouldn’t like to disturb Sergi’s memory and question his achievement but from the clip you’ve posted it definitely looks like he stood on C2 foresummit. Please look at last few seconds of it where you can clear see the whole path from C4 (and spiky lower summit – 2’nd twin summit of Manaslu – on the right) – while in Mingma’s video you can clearly see that C3 foresummit obscures the view of ascent path. So anything not showing C3 in close proximity would not prove that one reached real summit of Manaslu. PS… Read more »

OldHikerDude
OldHikerDude
2 months ago

Is Nims still there? He might want to take this opportunity to knock off that last little bit to the “true summit” to clear up any issues with his critics. Especially now that it’s fixed and well trodden.

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true_summit
true_summit
2 months ago
Reply to  OldHikerDude

Jackson Groves’ post on Instagram shows that he made it to the “true summit”. Since he was part of the Elite Expedition team, I assume Nims reached the “true summit” too. Therefore, even if one discounts his 2019 Manasalu climb, he can still claim the record for the fastest completion of the 14X8000er after the most recent summit.

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Pawel
Pawel
2 months ago
Reply to  true_summit

No, on Jackson Groves video you could cleary see that he reach only foresummit. Even on his video you could spot Mingma G climbing towards true summit. So Jackson and Elite Exp made only foresummit.

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OldHikerDude
OldHikerDude
2 months ago
Reply to  true_summit

Since the headline stated the this was the first “true summit” since 2012, I’m assuming that Nims’ 2019 summit will be “discounted”, as well as many others who have claimed a summit. I’m hoping he did knock it off this time, since he was in the neighborhood. Let’s wait to see his summit pic.

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bagra
bagra
2 months ago

I find Jackson Groves’ video ( https://www.instagram.com/tv/CUXHOxnKbJQ/ ) on Instagram a bit confusing since he (I guess this is totally on purpose, for some …artistic impulse?) flip his video (pay close attention for that cut on 46 to 47 seconds) so it’s kind of hard to tell… are those climbers climb towards him or they go to the top.
But then again second part (after 47th second) must be the right one since you can properly clearly read “K2” on that lowest climber backpack.
Right ? :-S

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Paul Devaney
Paul Devaney
2 months ago
Reply to  bagra

That video seems to end at the end of the fixed lines which is still a distance from the true summit. I don’t think Jackson went to the true summit at all as his summit pics on IG also indicate he topped out at the end of the fixed lines. His now infamous drone footage (which is now interestingly gone from Instagram) which was captured as stills and posted by others, shows vividly the distance between those flags at the end of the fixed lines and the true summit further up and along.

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Daniel
Daniel
2 months ago

This whole issue confuses me. Why would wealthy adventurers pay so much money and so much time and effort to reach a point they could clearly see wasn’t the highest on the mountain? Surely there would be a level of embarrassment in claiming the high point when you clearly knew it wasn’t.

I am very much an armchair mountaineer and have never (and probably will never) climb above 8000m. Reaching the fore summit of Manaslu is a magnificent achievement in itself… but why claim it is the summit when its not?!

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Paul Devaney
Paul Devaney
2 months ago
Reply to  Daniel

The summit has a very complex topography and add loads of snow to that and it is easy to make an error. If you are approaching the foresummit it is impossible to see beyond that unless you stand at the very peak of the upper foresummit which can be an extremely dangerous thing to do. So you could believe 100% that you were at the true summit outcrop at that point, decide to stand a few metres off the top for safety reasons, thus not seeing beyond it, and then find out later you were in the wrong place. Most… Read more »

gopal sharma
1 month ago

Nepal’s Tourism Department, overseeing climbing activities in the country, shows last ascent was on september 2018. can HDB clarify this?

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[…] sono trovati infarciti di domande. Il contraccolpo è cresciuto solo più intenso dopo che l’Himalayan Database ha confermato che nessuno aveva scalato il Manaslu da quando Guy Cotter aveva guidato i suoi clienti […]

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