Horia Colibasanu: “I want to open a new route next”


(Debrief) Climber Horia Colibasanu says he prepared for 3.5 years for his ascent of Everest, his 8th 8000er. He climbed the peak from the north side, alongside the rope fixing team, without oxygen and personal sherpa support.

Horia attributes his success to his weatherman, who gave him precise weather data, according to which he made the decision to go for summit.

“In the Himalayas, the weather counts the most for success. If it’s very cold, or snows too much, it’s very dangerous and you can not climb. The risk is, of course, not to come back. I had to give up one year on the mountain because of weather. This year, I worked with one of the world’s best meteorologists, I think he’s the best in Europe. He gave me a very good prognosis on the satellite phone and I headed to the top.”

Horia added that the next challenge in the Himalayas is to open a new route. “I want to climb all 14 peaks. The challenge for me will be to open a new route. It is a project that I have long ago in mind and which I have not given up.”


Horia Topped out Everest North Side w/out O2

Horia Colibasanu was the mountaineer who climbed Annapurna with Spanish Inaki Ochoa in his last, fatal ascent.

Following a 14 hours non-stop climb, the two turned around very close to the top and descended to camp 4 at around 7400 meters where Inaki became ill. Horia spent 4 days on the punishing altitude trying to aid his mate while making desperate calls for help on a dying sat phone. The duo was finally reached by Ueli Steck. Horia survived, but it was too late for Ochoa.

Recently, Ueli Steck fell to his death on Nuptse.

Over almost 20 expeditions the Romanian mountaineer has climbed more than half of the fourteen 8000ers, including K2. He carries his own gear, sets his own camps, breathes without artificial help, plans his own climbs, and typically tracks/fixes his own route.


Everest North Side without Oxygen: Horia (and Ralf) getting ready for summit attempt