The image of an endless line of trekkers heading to Everest Base Camp this week seemed like deja vu. Why are conga lines similar to the infamous ones filmed every May on Everest’s Hillary Step, now repeating at the base of the mountain? We asked the local trekking guide who shot the video.
Ngima Sherpa of Osprey Adventure explained that this is not the norm, but the delay caused by Cyclone Anwar, which hit Nepal last weekend, has created a huge backlog.
Unusual conditions
“Even though there are always a lot of trekkers heading to Everest Base Camp, this kind of traffic is not usual,” Ngima Sherpa explained. “This video was shot on November 1, after three days of continuous snow and rain…During that time, all the trekkers were stuck in Dingboche, which is two trekking stages away from Everest Base Camp.”
When the weather finally cleared, all those trekkers set off for EBC at the same time, causing heavy traffic on the route from Dingboche to Gorakshep.
The recent cyclone is also the reason why the surroundings are so heavily covered in snow. Usually, the entire trail to Everest Base Camp is dry.
Difficulties on trekking peaks
The fresh snow on Nepal’s peaks is having consequences for those planning to summit trekking peaks. Conditions on otherwise straightforward snow slopes have become problematic, as climbers sink into deep, heavy snow.
Satori Adventures had to retreat after swimming in snow on the flanks of Mera Peak, in the Khumbu. “Four to five feet of fresh snow made it impossible to move forward above high camp,” leader Furba Sherpa reported.
Ramesh Gurung noted today that he has retreated from an attempt on 6,119m Lobuche East, another popular Khumbu 6000’er. However, Gurung said he will try again with another group soon.
Conditions will change only as the snow transforms under the dimming sun and freezes in the approaching winter temperatures.
On Ama Dablam, Sherpa climbers struggled to reopen the route to Camp 1 on Tuesday but managed to complete it. The route above Camp 1 follows a steep, mixed ridge with less accumulated snow. Several teams are now on their summit rotations and expect to top out in the next few days.
Caution at Gokyo Lakes
Tenzing Sherpa of Gokyo Namaste Lodge has shared some useful information for trekkers who plan to cross the huge Ngozumpa Glacier between Gokyo and Dragnag. The recent snowfall makes the usual route less safe, and he recommends following local people along an easier route between Longbanga Tso (1st Lake) and Taujung Tso (2nd Lake). See Tenzing’s sketch of the route:
Alternative route between Gokyo Lakes, suggested by Gokyo Tenzing Sherpa.
Tenzing also noted that the route from Thame to Gokyo is open, as the Gokyo Lodge Association cleared and reopened the trail from the Gokyo side yesterday. However, conditions on the glacier may change quickly.
The route across Gokyo is one of the most popular side trips in the Khumbu, for those wanting to enrich their Everest Base Camp trek. The area features stunning scenery, with high mountain lakes, glaciers, and a view of the formidable South Face of Cho Oyu.
