Ice Climbing Frenzy in the Dolomites; Sieberer and Feistl Open New Route

Martin Feistl and Martin Sieberer opened an impressive 500m ice line in the busy Sass Pordoi area yesterday. They graded it as M6, WI 6.

The ice line follows the water that poured down a gully before it froze, hence the name “Gullyver’s Reisen,” which also refers to the 18th-century novel Gulliver’s Travels.

The climbers said that the excellent ice conditions at -15ºC allowed them to climb in a completely clean way on popular walls pinned with dozens of bolts for summer routes. Sieberer noted their new route don’t cross any of the summer ones so they used no bolts.


Sass Pordoy ice climbing frenzy

Feistl says he discovered the gully where he opened Gullyver’s Reisen while repeating Grazie Giovanni, a 300m M6 WI6 line opened by Marco Cordin, Massimo Faletti, and Paolo Valentini on Nov. 16.

Ice climbing on Sass Pordoi peak has been intense since the beginning of November. Simon Gietl and Vitorio Messini opened the formidable Eywa route (570m, M6, WI6) in mid-November. Eywa is located right in front of the route Feistal and Sieberer did yesterday.

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.