Denis Aleksenko and Artem Tsentsevitsky have run out of resources but not determination. After spending 45 days on huge Makalu (8,481m) in absolute solitude, they are out of time but have decided to persist a few more days — enough for one last summit try.
In this era of highly supported expeditions, in which even those calling themselves independent use packed trails and ropes fixed by others, the stubbornness of the two Russian climbers has the feel of an old-style epic. It is also slightly scary.
No time, no money, no retreat
“A week of good weather is forecast for tomorrow, so…in the morning, we’ll set out for the summit,” Aleksenko wrote.
Only 24 hours ago, they thought their expedition was over. They had reached 6,600m on their fourth rotation and were retrieving their tent after an exhausting ascent, plowing through deep, unstable snow. However, on the way down, they noticed that conditions were improving. The previously unstable snow was safer, Artem explained.
They decided to make one last try.
The climbers are on a shoestring budget and cannot even afford to keep their Base Camp supplied until they return. The porters have been assigned to retrieve everything on Sunday, but their friend, Simona Samilenko, will wait alone for them at the base of the mountain, with one tent and a minimal amount of food and fuel.
The team’s simple Base Camp on Makalu. Photo: Artem Tsentsevitsky
Situation excellent
“We have neither the time nor the resources for the return trip to Kathmandu…but we also can’t afford to leave the mountain after so much work without attempting the summit,” Aleksenko wrote.
The climbers plan to be on the mountain until October 17, and foresee that they may need to vastly overstep their budget for a helicopter back to Lukla if they are too exhausted to make the long trek back. From Lukla, Tsentsevitsky has to hurry to Ama Dablam to lead a group of climbers.
“We’ll see what comes out of this,” Tsentsevitsky said.
In their third and highest rotation, the two climbers reached 7,500m. The conditions above that point are unclear.
They will not update during the summit push, but you can track Alekshenko’s progress here.
