K2: Missions Accomplished

8000ers K2 Karakorum
Kenton Cool, guiding with Madison Mountaineering, at Camp 4 on his way down.

Today’s summiters are back in their tents, mainly in Camp 3, with a few in Camp 2. No-O2 climber Niels Jespers intended to reach Camp 3 for the night.

All 21 members of Madison Mountaineering reportedly summited. With the Pioneer Adventure team (including Sherpa and Pakistani staff), the Pakistani climbers, and some independents, that’s almost 50 people. It could be a seasonal record for K2.

Fake news

Meanwhile, unchecked reports, fake news, guessing, and misunderstandings continue to buzz around everything related to Sajid Sadpara and his attempt to recover his father’s remains. What we can confirm is that the young Sadpara moved the remains of Ali Sadpara away from the main route. Some reports say back to Camp 4. Then he performed a religious ceremony to honor Ali and set off for Base Camp.

Sajid’s official account reads: “I have secured the body of our hero at C4. An Argentinian climber has been a great help in bringing the body [from] above the Bottleneck to C4. I offered Fatih & recited Holy Quran on behalf of the whole nation. Secured place with Pakistan flag.”

The resting place of Ali Sadpara, marked with the flag of Pakistan. Photo: @sajid_sadpara

We know of no Argentinian climber currently on K2. Hugo Ayaviri is on the mountain and summited — reportedly without supplementary O2 —  earlier today, but he is from Bolivia. Again, details will become clearer once the climbers return to Base Camp. Tonight, Sajid and his team are resting in Camp 3.

Ali Porik confirms that some personal items have been retrieved for the remains of the fallen climbers. These include at least one InReach device and possibly cellphones and cameras. The data on these devices could shed light on the last hours of the missing climbers, including whether they reached the summit or not. On returning to Camp 4, Elia Saikaly texted: “Mission Accomplished. Mind Blown.”

It remains to be seen whether Pakistani army helicopters will be able to retrieve the bodies. They can sling them by long lines from Camp 2, but hardly any higher. All the families agree that they wanted their loved ones back home, if possible, but any recovery will be hazardous, difficult, and costly.

+5

About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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Don Paul
Don Paul
4 months ago

Someone on twitter said army aviation is able to get up to C3. Samson Simon Sharaf would know.

0
Jim
Jim
4 months ago
Reply to  Don Paul

Highly unlikely but there are a few areas between c2 and c3 where a long line may be possible

+3
Samson Simon Sharaf
4 months ago
Reply to  Don Paul

Height ceiling versus load. The Lama copter will be beyond its limits. In the region, MI 24 the Russian Copter can do it but Pakistan does not have them

0
Muhammad Adeel
Muhammad Adeel
4 months ago

How it would be if the mountaineer bring those bodies at c2, and the copter further bring down the bodies. I don’t if it is possible just my assumption.

0
Khizer
Khizer
4 months ago

Pakistan has the Mi24, well it’s newer version the Mi35. It also has its transport version the Mi17. Both are too heavy and big for this sort of an operation. Pakistan Army’s helicopters of choice for high altitude rescues are stripped down Eurocopter Écureuils and Aérospatiale Lamas.

0
Wijdan
Wijdan
4 months ago

Without a doubt it would be very difficult and risky manouver to get bodies down from that height, no matter the method used. Its probably better to bury the remains in the snow and move on.

+1
Samson Simon Sharaf
4 months ago

I reckon Sajid Sadpara’s voicemail from Camp 3 says it all. Not possible humanly to retrieve the body beyond where it is now.

https://www.facebook.com/pamirtimes/videos/192359346109596/

+1
Don Paul
Don Paul
4 months ago

Why is no one helping Sajid? They spend so much time posing for photos for social media, and here is a real opportunity to be a hero.

+3
Jahan
Jahan
4 months ago
Reply to  Don Paul

^ Totally agree. Seems like that was all to get cheap fame and likes.

0
DRC
DRC
4 months ago
Reply to  Don Paul

Quite simply – Polish climbers and Denis Urubko are not there…

0
MuddyBoots
MuddyBoots
4 months ago

Thank you SSS. Can you translate ? What a brave and talented young man.

0
Samson Simon Sharaf
4 months ago

Sajid Sadpara talking of the difficulties of retrieving bodies of Ali Muhammad Sadpara and John Snorri. He says they will try moving these bodies to places where they can be buried.
https://fb.watch/71XXdsbbhT/

+4
Samson Simon Sharaf
4 months ago

A special salute to Fazal Ali, a resident of Shimshal Valley (Hunza), who has summitted the world’s second highest mountain for the fourth time while carrying filming equipment of Elia Elia Saikaly.
Fazal Ali climbed K2 for the first time in 2014.
His second summit was in 2017.
He conquered K2 again in 2018.
Today, along with Sajid Sadpara, Pasang Kaji and Elia Saikaly Fazal was on top of K2 for the fourth time.

+8
227187929_10158107941027617_7448610144738983678_n.jpg
Samson Simon Sharaf
4 months ago

This news needs validation.

0
Jahan
Jahan
4 months ago

Fazal Ali is the ‘King of K2’.

0
Angus
Angus
4 months ago
Reply to  Jahan

There are no kings and queens. Just people who are passionate about climbing 🙂

+3
Samson Simon Sharaf
4 months ago

Talked to Sajid Sadpara today. He confirmed that due to bad health Fazal could not summit

0
Tourist Operator
Tourist Operator
4 months ago

Great job to everyone! Have a safe descent and revel in the glory amongst all the other tourists.

+2
F v
F v
4 months ago

Elia now at C2 above house of chimney

0
Angus
Angus
4 months ago
Reply to  F v

There is a house?

0
Mike adamzek
Mike adamzek
4 months ago

Being back is accomplished. Sajid’s team is safe in ABC. Curious if Ali, John and Juan reached the summited k2 winter 2021 expedition. Back in Basecamp they recharge found phones, tracker. To find more data

+2
Jahan
Jahan
4 months ago
Reply to  Mike adamzek

Figure 8 devices were found on the bodies. But that doesn’t mean they summited, only that they were descending. We will find out when the data is retrieved from Garmin,go pro etc found on the bodies.

0
Sana S Khan
Sana S Khan
4 months ago

Yes it was Hugo Ayaviri who helped…..Sajid confirmed it …thank u so much Hugo …u stood up with Sajid when many didn’t …thank you ❤️

+4
Khizer
Khizer
4 months ago
Reply to  Sana S Khan

Can’t find his twitter account. Need to thank him.

0
Angus
Angus
4 months ago
Reply to  Khizer

Unlike most other ego-driven individuals, Hugo doesn’t seem to be motivated by social media fame and his ego. Simple guy, goes out and climbs because he’s passionate, helps because it’s in his nature. Gets the job done, goes home quietly. This guy is the real hero not the rest of the idiots.

+2
Khizer
Khizer
4 months ago
Reply to  Angus

You do know that if it weren’t for these twitter accounts we would barely know what’s going on? Also, Hugo is a hero indeed but you can’t take anything away from all the other serious climbers out there.

+1
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