No one expected that Langtang Lirung would make things easy for Czech climbers Marek Holecek, Ondrej Huserka, and Ondra Mrklovsky. However, nobody expected that an optimistic forecast would turn into relentless rain, which triggered avalanches everywhere.
The team had patiently waited for a good forecast. When it came, they launched their summit push up the east face of Langtang Lirung on October 9. They planned a four-day ascent and two more days of descent.
Then rain started to pour that morning, forcing the team to improvise a bivouac under a rock wall. They needed shelter from the gigantic avalanches that, as Holecek reported via satellite phone, started falling around…and on them.
The bivouac under a rocky roof. Photo: Marek Holecek
Hiding from avalanches
“It always gets completely dark, and a mass of snow flies over with a terrible crash,” Holecek said. “The pressure squeezes the walls of the tent…Then for another minute, I listen to the snow disappearing into the valley.”
Avalanche debris under the east face of Langtang Lirung. Photo: Marek Holecek
The climbers endured the night there until the avalanches stopped. That morning, they returned to base camp and then down to the nearest village.
They are not ready to surrender quite yet. “We still have time…we are thinking about another attempt,” said Holecek.
