Simon Gietl of Italy has used the low temperatures in the Central Alps to redpoint Lumina, a highly difficult M8 route he had opened solo last April. For the climb, Gietl paired with world champion ice climber Ines Papert of Germany.
To redpoint a route means to free climb it entirely with no falls and no aid climbing, not even leaning on the rope.
The 280m line runs up the middle of the east pillar of Wildgall in South Tyrol, on the border between Austria and Italy. Gietl describes it as one of the wildest and most forbidding peaks in the Rieserferner group.
Topo of ‘Lumina’ on Wildgall Peak. Photo: Simon Gietl
“This striking summit is considered a small, fine mixed climbing area that offers ambitious alpinists an extraordinary playground for combined terrain,” Gietl said about Wildgall Peak.
Gietl redpointed the route on November 10, supported by Ines Papert of France. They rated the line as M8-.
Gietl noted the line offers “varied combined climbing on predominantly good, but in places brittle rock, with typical crack systems and some loose blocks.”
A moment of the climb. Photo: Simon Gietl.
Rockfall warning
Gietl used 3 pitons and 1 pecker on the route, which he left on the wall. For those wishing to repeat the route, Gietl recommends two series of totem cams, small micro cams, and a three-pitch Friend as the ideal climbing gear to secure progress.
“[It] requires extensive alpine experience and careful assessment of the conditions,” Gietl warned. “Due to the high risk of falling rocks, it is only advisable to start in clear, cold conditions.”
Route topo notes, by Simon Gietl
