Those climbers who didn’t cancel their plans when the hostilities erupted between India and Pakistan, or those who made their minds at the last minute, are on their way to Nanga Parbat. Many are seeking to complete their 14×8,000m lists. Others have already done so but are returning to the so-called Killer Mountain.
No-oxygen climbers
Less crowds in key sections as the Kinshoffer Wall will be positive for those attempting the mountain independently, such as Horia Colibasanu of Romania. As usual, he will climb without porters or supplemental oxygen.
Romania’s Horia Colibasanu on the plane to Islamabad. Photo: Colibasanu
Ashraf Sadpara of Pakistan also plans to climb Nanga Parbat without supplementary oxygen, as he previously did on K2, Broad Peak, and the two Gasherbrums. He is the son of Ali Raza, one of the best-known and admired climbers in Pakistan. As one of the country’s first climbing instructors, Ali Raza became the mentor for a whole generation. He perished in a rock-climbing accident in 2022.
Alpymon blog reports that Marie Saame of Estonia is on her way to Nanga Parbat as well. She intends to climb the 14×8,000’ers without oxygen, porters, or personal guides. She has previously climbed Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, and Manaslu. Saame also attempted Annapurna this spring but couldn’t summit for health reasons. She is also a professional violinist specializing in the music of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance.
File image of Marie Saame of Estonia. Photo: Minstrel-trails.ee
One more time on Nanga
Also in place is 14×8,000’ers summiter Jorge Egocheaga of Spain. Egocheaga claimed to have summited the 14×8,000’ers without supplemental O2 years ago, but his K2 climb was disputed and not accepted by 8,000ers.com. The site also concluded that Egocheaga had not reached the true summits of Manaslu and Annapurna.
Usually quiet about his plans, Egocheaga returned to the Himalaya a couple of years ago to “correct” his resumé, climbing all three peaks. The last of these was Annapurna, which he summited on May 17 this year. Nowadays, he climbs with Seven Summit Treks. As a medical doctor by profession, he often attends to sick climbers in Base Camp.
Dorota Rasinska-Samocko is also about to reach the Base Camp of Nanga Parbat. Last year on Shisha Pangma, she became the first Polish woman to complete the 14×8,000’ers.
