Nanga Parbat: Quieter Than Usual But not Empty

Those climbers who didn’t cancel their plans when the hostilities erupted between India and Pakistan, or those who made their minds at the last minute, are on their way to Nanga Parbat. Many are seeking to complete their 14×8,000m lists. Others have already done so but are returning to the so-called Killer Mountain.

No-oxygen climbers

Less crowds in key sections as the Kinshoffer Wall will be positive for those attempting the mountain independently, such as Horia Colibasanu of Romania. As usual, he will climb without porters or supplemental oxygen.

Horia Colibasanu takes a selfie while sitting on a plane to Islamabad.

Romania’s Horia Colibasanu on the plane to Islamabad. Photo: Colibasanu

 

Ashraf Sadpara of Pakistan also plans to climb Nanga Parbat without supplementary oxygen, as he previously did on K2, Broad Peak, and the two Gasherbrums. He is the son of Ali Raza, one of the best-known and admired climbers in Pakistan. As one of the country’s first climbing instructors, Ali Raza became the mentor for a whole generation. He perished in a rock-climbing accident in 2022.

Alpymon blog reports that Marie Saame of Estonia is on her way to Nanga Parbat as well. She intends to climb the 14×8,000’ers without oxygen, porters, or personal guides. She has previously climbed Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, and Manaslu. Saame also attempted Annapurna this spring but couldn’t summit for health reasons. She is also a professional violinist specializing in the music of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance.

MArie Saame with a blouse and vintage-looking mountain boots, sitting on a rock with a red scarf on her head.

File image of Marie Saame of Estonia. Photo: Minstrel-trails.ee

 

One more time on Nanga

Also in place is 14×8,000’ers summiter Jorge Egocheaga of Spain. Egocheaga claimed to have summited the 14×8,000’ers without supplemental O2 years ago, but his K2 climb was disputed and not accepted by 8,000ers.com. The site also concluded that Egocheaga had not reached the true summits of Manaslu and Annapurna.

Usually quiet about his plans, Egocheaga returned to the Himalaya a couple of years ago to “correct” his resumé, climbing all three peaks. The last of these was Annapurna, which he summited on May 17 this year. Nowadays, he climbs with Seven Summit Treks. As a medical doctor by profession, he often attends to sick climbers in Base Camp.

Dorota Rasinska-Samocko is also about to reach the Base Camp of Nanga Parbat. Last year on Shisha Pangma, she became the first Polish woman to complete the 14×8,000’ers.

Finally, there’s the peerless Denis Urubko, still acclimatizing with wife Maria Cardell before attempting a new route on Nanga Parbat’s Diamir Face. After climbing several 5,000m peaks, the no-oxygen, 14,8,000m summiter wrote today that they are now ready to venture above 6,000m. He didn’t specify where.

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.