Nepalese Abort First Ascent Try on Khayang Peak

Difficult conditions have forced Prakash Gurung, Yukta Gurung, and Sandesh Sherpa to abort their attempt at the first ascent of 6,186m Khayang Peak near Manaslu.

“We faced a glacier riddled with hidden dangers and weather that refused to relent,” the team reported. “The risks became too great.”

Willing to share insight

The humbled team admits that they have no intention of returning. They say they’ve learned some important lessons about Khayang Peak that they will happily share with anyone who wants to try the first ascent in the future.

“[We hope our information] paves the way for others to succeed where we could not,” the climbers wrote.

climbers trying to find a passage among a very broken glacier.

On Khayang Peak. Photo: Prakash Gurung

 

They have shared a complete set of photos and videos of the glacier on Prakash Gurung’s Facebook, enough to either help future climbers or prompt them to reconsider.

Project together

The attempt on Khayang Peak is part of what Prakash and Yukta Gurung call Project Together, a series of climbs on little-known peaks in Nepal to promote environmentally friendly expeditions done in a light style by locals. It started in 2023 when the pair made the first ascent of Khumjungar (6,759m) in the upper Mustang.

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.