Editor’s note: The first ascenders of Chhopa Bamare have disputed this Nepali climb. See https://explorersweb.com/nepali-ascent-of-chhopa-bamare-disputed/
Nepalese climbers have made the second-ever ascent of 6,109 Chhopa Bamare in Rolwaling, according to The Himalayan Database.
John Patrick Kelley of the U.S. and Benjamin Billet of France first climbed Chhopa Bamare in the winter of 2019, as they reported in the American Alpine Journal. They went alpine style up the southeast face and the southwest ridge on a four-day climb, summiting on Feb. 28. They noted that although not a highly difficult climb, “it was a beautiful mountain.”
The 2019 climbers provided full details and proof of their climb, which was covered in several media. However, Nepal’s Department of Tourism continued to file it as “unclimbed” on its Nepal Himal Peak Profile site since the mountain opened to climbing in 2014. Hence, the Nepalese team has claimed the first “official” ascent.
Tourism promotion goals
Whatever the case, the recent Nepalese expedition pursued a different goal: to increase the number of trekking peaks available in Nepal and promote tourism in less-visited areas. Organized by Himalayan Eco Treks and Expeditions and Dolma Outdoor, the expedition members belonged to the Bigu municipality.
The summiters, led by Dolma Outdoor’s head Nima Gyalzen, topped out on Dec. 29, eight days after reaching Base Camp. Phurba Thiley Sherpa, Lila Bahadur Basnet, Lakpa Gelji Sherpa, Bhabindra Khadka, and Bigu chairperson Sanjeeb Oli also took part.
We have asked the Nepalese outfitter for details on their route.
“The peak can be reached in only three days, so it is a great option for trekkers,” Dolma Outdoor’s sister company, Himalayan Shepherd, told ExplorersWeb.
Chhopa Bamare lies in the Dolkha district of Rolwaling, close to Gauri Shankar and on the border with Tibet. In fact, the peak is visible from the Tibetan border in Kodari. Teams leave Kodari en route to Shishapagma and Cho Oyu within Tibet.
From the summit, the Nepalese climbers enjoyed great views of Cho Oyu, Everest, and Lhotse, as seen in the video below.
Nima Gyalzen and his team climbed another virgin peak with clients last fall: Jugal V.
