In mid-July, Czech climbers Michal Coubal, Martin Tucka, and Anna Coubalova opened a new multi-pitch line on the west face of Coston d’Averau in the Dolomites. Coubal made a detailed report for Planet Mountain on their new route.
A great mountain adventure
The name of the line is ‘Utulie’n Aure’ (8-/RS3/I). According to Coubal, the idea to attempt a new line on the west face of Coston d’Averau came after reading the Dolomiti New Age Sport Climbing Guidebook. The Czech climbers were motivated by several sport routes established on the wall by Coubal’s friend, Roly Galvagni. “His routes are always a guarantee for a great mountain adventure,” Coubal wrote.
A photo from the climb. Photo: Michal Coubal
Coubal, Tucka, and Coubalova first chose the ‘Corto Maltese’ route (VI+) to get acquainted with the wall and get a closer look at the terrain. Coubal and Tucka climbed some pitches the following day and found an interesting route on the west face that could offer them a good climb.
From a small ledge, the two climbers reached a point below a huge rock formation. From there, they could observe that above them was solid rock.
Fifteen meters higher, they discovered the entrance to the wedge, an overhanging crack leading to the lip of a triangular face. That day, Coubal and Tucka could have continued. However, Coubalova was resting below the face, dealing with some health problems.
The first ascent
The following day, the team targeted the same route, this time with the intention of climbing it. “The dreaded overhang becomes a treat the next day. The amazing exposure on its edge is a great reward for any enthusiastic climber, and the route through the center of the face to the summit is now wide open,” Coubal said.
The name of their route, Utulie’n Aure, means “the day has come,” in Elvish.
During the first ascent of Utulie’n Aure on Coston d’Averau. Photo: Michal Coubal
