On August 18, Catalan climbers Miquel Mas and Marc Subirana opened a new route on the southwest face of Latok II, in the Panmah Muztagh, Central Karakoram, Pakistan. Their new line ends on a foresummit of Latok II, at about 6,400m.
According to Carlos Garranzo from the climbers’ home team, this is the first time that anyone has climbed the peak from the southwest.
Two years in the making
Two years ago, Subirana and Mas observed some photos that showed Latok II had a foresummit at about 6,400m that was well separated from the main summit. To get there they’d need to climb a 1,000m+ wall.
In 2022, they scouted the line and then made a first attempt, but were unable to finish because of a lack of time. This summer they finally knocked it off, finishing in 14 hours and opening six new pitches to top out.
They have named the new route “Latok Thumb”. The 1,100m route goes along quite a direct line on the southwest face and has 31 pitches, 7a, A2+, M5. The foresummit is at around 6,400m (6,380m according to their Suunto, and 6,430m according to their Garmin).