Last week, we reported that the North Side of Everest will not open to climbing this spring due to a controversial fireworks display five months ago near the Tibetan city of Shigatse. It turns out that the strange blowback from this event extends even further. Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma will also be closed while local authorities finish their investigation.
Outfitters offering Tibet’s 8,000m peaks have not yet officially cancelled. “Nothing solid at this time, and we are still working toward running the expedition,” Alpenglow’s Adrian Ballinger told ExplorersWeb on Saturday. “We have been hearing the rumors for two weeks, but we have not received any formal, official announcement.”
However, a climber who chose to remain anonymous told ExplorersWeb that outfitters have been informed by the China-Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) that Everest North Side will not be open to climbing this spring. A second source has confirmed that several outfitters have received a letter confirming the CMTA’s decision.
Closed to Chinese as well?
The situation is similar to 2023, when, after weeks of uncertainty, the CTMA decided to keep Everest closed to foreigners. Back then, Furtenbach Adventures moved its clients to the Nepali side of the mountain. Meanwhile, Alpenglow, which does not choose to operate on the South Side of Everest, due to crowding and the need to cross the dangerous Khumbu Icefall, offered Makalu as a Plan B for its clients.
While the CTMA closed the mountain to foreigners that year, it remained open for Chinese nationals. This year might be different, as the reason to keep the mountains closed is political and involves the regional government of Shigatse.
Fireworks’ backlash
Two sources have confirmed to ExplorersWeb that the closure is due to an ongoing investigation following a controversial fireworks display on the outskirts of Shigatse last September. As we explained in our previous story, the noise and bursts of colored powder during the event drew heated criticism for the potential environmental damage, disturbance to local fauna, and a lack of respect for the mountains.
The negative feedback prompted an investigation, reported Xinhua News, with serious consequences for the local authorities who permitted the show. Several officials have been sacked, according to the BBC, and it now seems that the process is not complete. Until it is, the CTMA has decided to close the mountains to international expeditions.
Shigatse’s location on Google Maps, north of Nepal and far from Everest.
That means Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma, located in the Shigatse district, will also be closed, at least in spring. This affects several outfitters who had announced Cho Oyu trips for April.
How about Tyler Andrews’ FKT?
This must be a difficult time for Tyler Andrews of the U.S., who planned to attempt a Fastest Known Time on Everest FKT from the North Side this spring. “We are considering all our options and will announce a decision shortly,” Andrews told ExplorersWeb.
File image of Tyler Andrews. Photo: Tyler Andrews
The American runner tried to achieve the feat from the South Side last year. This time, he was confident he could set the FKT without supplemental oxygen by following the Tibetan route to the summit.
