Pakistan Alpine Style: Muchu Chhish Nail Biter, New Team to K7 West

On the sixth day of the Czechs’ summit push on Muchu Chhish, Radoslav Groh and Tomas Petrecek are just one day from the summit. But they are exhausted, running out of supplies, and the weather has turned bad.

Yesterday, Petrecek and Groh left their tent at 7,400m and headed for the unclimbed ridge. But after an hour, the fog was so thick that they could barely see each other. Eventually, they turned around. Despite the whiteout, the climbers found their way back to their tent, thanks to their GPS. By then, it had started to snow.

Pavel Korinek is still on his way up to meet Groh and Petrecek for the final effort. Korinek had gone down with Pawel Bem, ill with Acute Mountain Sickness, two days earlier. He then went back up to rejoin his comrades.

We’ve had no updates about Groh’s state of health. Earlier, the Czech was also showing symptoms of AMS.

The climber takes a selfie from the gate of his tent in a sunny day, Spantik summit in Background.

Tomas Petrecek while acclimatizing on Spantik. Photo: Tomas Petrecek/Facebook

 

K7 Central and Badal Peak

On July 14, Jeff and Priti Wright reached Hushe and began their trek to K7 Central. Their arrival coincided with good weather. They should be about to reach Base Camp.

The climbers stand in front of a hotel's gate. She wears a scarf and sunglasses, Jeff is in a blue sponsored t-shirt.

Jeff and Priti Wright last weekend in Hushe. Photo: Alpine Vagabonds

 

They will not be alone. A French team outfitted by High Mountain Treks & Tours is on its way to Badal Peak (6,100m), a subpeak on the southwest side of K7 West. This rocky spire has had some lines previously opened on its granite walls, as described in this AAJ article.

The French team includes Florent Dulac, Damien Lacaze Labadie, and Benoit Montfort. Below, in bold green, the route they intend to climb, according to the outfitter.

route map up Dalman peak

The French team will climb the bold green line up Badal Peak, a subpeak of K7 West. Photo: High Mountain Treks & Tours

 

Rocky massif under a blue sky, with lines marking climbing routes

The topo shows the routes opened on the SW side of Badal Peak (A). (B) is Jeff and Priti Wright’s goal — K7 Middle (6,858m, unclimbed). (C) is K7 Main (6,934m). Photo: Katasukata Yokoyama/American Alpine Journal

 

Gasherbrum I

Denis Urubko and Pipi Cardell are back at Gasherbrum Base Camp after reaching 6,500m on Gasherbrum I’s normal route. They are using the regular route to acclimatize before attempting a new alpine-style line on the mountain. Their next excursion will be to 7,200m on the normal route. That will be their final preparation.

The pair started on the mountain many days before the commercial expeditions arrived. Their next acclimatization round, though, will not be so lonely. Kristin Harila and the sherpas reached 7,000m today, and other climbers followed.

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.