The only team currently on Everest has set off across an untouched Khumbu Icefall. There are no ladders or ropes at this time of year, and everything ahead of them is uncertain.
Earlier this week, the Russian team of Andrei Vasiliev, Sergey Kondrashkin, Vitaly Shipilov, and Natalya Belyankina acclimatized toward the Nuptse shoulder, to the right of the Khumbu Icefall. Heavy snow slowed them, eventually forcing them to stop for the night at 5,650m.
Nuptse in the sun, with the Khumbu Glacier at the base and Everest’s West Shoulder on the left. Photo: Russian Everest Expedition 2026
The Khumbu or Lho La?
Returning to their quarters in Lobuche, the team focused on rest and pondered their options. “We are considering two alternatives: either going up across the Khumbu Icefall or trying the West Ridge via the Lho La, the mountain pass to the left of the Khumbu Glacier that leads to Everest’s west ridge,” they said. Jost Kobusch has attempted the West Ride/Lho La route several times in winter.
The Russians have now chosen the first option. “We’re heading up, attempting to get through the Khumbu Icefall,” Vasilief told Mountainclub. “We’ll see how things go from there.”
The team plans to spend six days on the mountain and has not confirmed whether they will attempt the summit or complete another partial trip.
